Hi JD Agreed. Yes I'm familiar with the void issue. It seems like the open face set ups are the most prone to this malady. I've repaired two identical Victorian Weber's in this way. In there future I will simply apply epoxy to fill the voids & thern set the plate right in and bolt it donw. That out to solve the viod problem Especially with the addition of one of the super strength epoxy fillers. Dale The last Ibach I did that had a cracked metal frame was a 6-footer of about this age, and what I discovered was that the wrestplank was not properly mated with the frame (Am. 'plate') webbing. Since there was a hollow under (at least one of) the screw holes, the webbing had been forced to bend as the screw was tightened and great stress was introduced. Luckily I noticed the crack and was able to alert the customer before de-stringing, because when the tension came off the crack opened up right through. I had the frame stitched <http://www.locknstitch.com/Metal_Stitching.htm> by Metalock <http://www.metalock.co.uk/castingrepairs.asp> I'd bet the cause of your crack is the same. There is no other obvious reason why the casting should break at that point, since there is no internal stress. Provided you work down the plank and/or fill up to ensure close contact with the casting all along, there should be no further problem. JD **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20071215/a15c8e0a/attachment-0001.html
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC