Ok - no epoxy. The Garrett Wade Slo-Set - aliphatic resin glue is white - not even close to yellow. Looks like PVC_E. Does the color make a difference? For slo set I think it would be wise to switch to a more familiar Titebond as you and Terry have experience. Thank you for the clamping sequence tips, had not considered that. Gene ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Nossaman" <rnossaman at cox.net> To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 11:39 AM Subject: Re: gluing in the new board > >> Just curious if anyone uses epoxy to glue in a new soundboard? >> Other than the difficulty of removing the board in the next 25 to 50 >> years, are there any other problems associated with this? > > Please don't. Someday someone will hunt you down, dig you up, and hammer > your bones to dust for it. Just hope you're long dead when that happens. > > >> My main motivation for epoxy is that I will be alone for glue up and >> prboably am not fast enough for carpenters glue. >> I do have a bottle of new glue that I have never used from Garrett Wate >> called Slo-Set Glue - an aliphatic resin - gives about 30 min work time. >> Comments welcome. >> Gene Nelson > > If it's a yellow aliphatic resin like Titebond, it should work fine. > Titebond also makes a slow set glue, incidentally. I've found that I don't > have trouble gluing boards in by myself with regular old original > Titebond, and I'm definitely in the old and slow category. I make sure I > have everything I need around the piano, and start slopping on glue. Over > twice, to make sure everything's wet, soundboard in, clamp cauls down, > clamp treble front, bass tail, bass front, treble tail, middle of the > belly rail, and fill in between.The first five clamps put the board down > in the glue all around, so you have time to get the rest of the clamps on > without a problem. If I have any doubt, my wife can run F-clamps just > fine, and doesn't mind helping if necessary. > > Ron N > >
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