Mismatched parts can create some performance problems so changing both at the same time is advised. Also, if you put on a new hammer which is likely to be heavier than the old one, the old and lightweight repetition springs can have problems lifting the new weight. With a new hammer that is heavier you will likely have to use a different knuckle position on the new shanks. Possibly you will need to go all the way to 17 mm placing those on a wippen designed for 15.5 mm. Best in this case to do the entire job with Renner parts and hammers of your choice: hammers, shanks, wippens, let off buttons, back checks, key frame felt, balance rail punchings (unless it's an accelerated action), front rail punchings, bushings, key end felt, precision balance the action Stanwood style. It might inspire them to do the rest of the piano and if they do they won't have a half done action to go with it. If you pick the right hammer, they'll love you forever. David Love davidlovepianos at comcast.net www.davidlovepianos.com -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Cal Munson Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 4:25 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: 1939 Steinway wippens I am going to be replacing the hammers and shanks on a 1939 Steinway 'S' and possibly the wippens too. All parts are original. Vertigris is quite evident in the hammer flanges and they are very stiff. The wippens appear much less affected though I did not have the time to do a thorough inspection. I assume that these will eventually develop a vertigris problem as well and am looking for some confirmation that I can pass along to my customer. Thanks for your responses to my previous post on hammer bore distance. Though the hammers in question have been on the shelf now for 3 years , Alice at Renner could not have been more attentive and willing to do what she could to help out . Cal Munson
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