As did I some 30 years back when I first started laminating ribs. Then I switched over to a urea formaldehyde adhesive and then to Titebond II and am now back to my old favorite, a urea formaldehyde. I did manage to cure the instability problems with Titebond by leaving each batch in the clamping cauls for a couple of days. It worked but it always made me feel a bit uncomfortable. So I've gone back to my old standby, #CP-0503 -- a powdered, pre-catalyzed urea to which you add water. I get it from CP Adhesives, www.cpadhesives.com, (which used to be Custom Pak Adhesives). It runs $18 for 5-lbs or $70 for 25-lbs. I don't know how this price compares to the others. (Which all reminds me -- I have to order some more for a large laminated structure I'm getting ready to glue up.) CP-0503 has a shelf life of a year or better (as long as you keep it closed up tight and reasonably cool) and it mixes with water. The company says it will cure at anything from 70º F on up but I've used it down to about 65º with no problems. It has minimal gassing. I use it with moderate ventilation with no problems. Del Delwin D Fandrich Piano Design & Manufacturing Consultant 620 South Tower Avenue Centralia, Washington 98531 USA Phone 360.736-7563 <mailto:fandrich at pianobuilders.com> | -----Original Message----- | From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org | [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Farrell | Sent: October 11, 2007 11:54 AM | To: Pianotech List | Subject: Re: Glue for laminated rib construction | | Because I've had a few slabs of ribs change shape after | drying out. After a week or so, once MC is equilibrated to | the shop I'm sure they are fine. But I've made up a few slabs | with a curve of X meters and ended up with X-? meters or X+? | meters. Not a big deal even then, cause I can still use 'em. | But it can be frustrating if you want to make a certain | radius and use that certain radius. I simply found that with | the Unibond UF adhesive that is never an issue.
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