Upright pinblock question

[pianolover 88]

Thanks Dean! I was actually thinking of cutting some felt circles to cover each recessed area. Where can I find/buy the cpvc caps? Would H. Depot have them, or is it something I would have to make myself? Thanks!

Terry Peterson

> From: deanmay at pianorebuilders.com
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Subject: RE: Upright pinblock question
> Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 22:33:20 -0400
> 
> Looks Great! You should try dressing up those nuts on the backside with 1/2"
> cpvc caps. 
> 
> Dean
> 
> Dean May             cell 812.239.3359 
> 
> PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 
> 
> Terre Haute IN  47802
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
> Of pianolover 88
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 9:42 PM
> To: PIANOTECH at PTG.ORG
> Subject: FW: Upright pinblock question
> 
> 
> Just modified the the job. To be on the safe(er) side, I ended up using
> super strong GRADE 8  Hex head 5/16" bolts (Same diameter as factory screws)
> since flat heads w/cone shape under head were available only in grade 2! I
> then used small locking washers, and put the bolts from inside to back,
> using extra large 1 1/2' outer diameter 'Fender' washers. I also used a 1.5"
> spade bit to counter sink. I think it should hold up pretty well indeed.
> Thanks for all the help!
> ________________________________
> Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 11:58:28 -0500
> From: IFixPianos at yahoo.com
> To: pianotech at ptg.org; pianolover88 at hotmail.com
> Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question
> 
> 
> 
> On 10/28/07, John Ross <jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca> wrote:
> Why don't you just get a piece of angle iron, then you would also have
> rigidity.
> The original lag bolts are normally close to the top, so I think angle iron
> would work.
> You might have to route an indent, so the lid will lie flat.
> John M. Ross
> Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
> jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: 'gordon stelter' <lclgcnp at yahoo.com>
> To: 'Pianotech List' <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:18 PM
> Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question
> 
> 
> >     I put the bolts in from the front, but with a
> > BUNCH of fender washers under the nut on the back:
> > lest the nuts/washers get sucked into the wood.
> > ( Nobody should put an upright right against the wall,
> > anyway. )
> >     On a very rare and costly upright I may soon be
> > working on, I intend to have a 1/8 inch ( at least )
> > steelplate made to stretch all the way across the
> > back, with holes drilled in it, for the bolts to go
> > through.  Not very pretty, but the most stable,
> > long-lasting solution. ( Should help keep the back
> > from 'cupping', too! )
> >
> > Peace,
> >     G
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Willem Blees <wimblees at aol.com> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> 
> Hi Terry,
> 
> I have done the exact repair you are contemplating on the exact piano you
> are referring to. First of all, the reason it seperated is because Kohler &
> Cambell in their very wise woodworkers way made their back structure from
> spruce and glued the pinblock to it. Since spruce expands/contracts at a
> differing rate than maple it seperated at the glue joint! Surprise! 
> Now to the fix, first of all you need PIPE clamps not c-clamps c-clamps will
> warp and not give you nearly the holding power that pipe clamps will, I know
> I've tried both! You can get Pony brand pipe clamps at any home center, get
> the 3/4' , you can also get the threaded pipe you'll need, I'd get 12'
> lengths, that's long enough for any old uprights you may want to bolt in the
> future. I have about 8 clamps but usually only have space for 6 of them.
> Place a clamp near each screw bore the screw hole and pinblock behind it all
> the way through, I use 1/2' carriage bolts about 1/2' longer than the
> thickness of back and plate, If there isn't room for 1/2' use 7/16' or if
> that's still too big then you have to use 3/8' but then go to the grade 5
> hardened bolts, the standard grade 3/8' snap off way too easily. They come
> in half sizes to 6'. I use a large flat washer under the head of the bolt,
> one large enough for the square heade to fit through it but for the round
> lip to catch on it, in back, a small flat washer and a lock washer and nut
> in front against the plate. Snug them tight until the bolt tries to turn, If
> they turn too soon, put a clamp on them at an angle to hold it while you
> tighten.
> There is no need to lower tension since your clamps will maintain the hold
> that the screws did. You will need a good drill, a cordless won't do the
> job, something with at least 4 amps of power. A good metal bit and depending
> on how thick the back is, perhaps a longer auger bit to finish out the hole,
> lengthwise.
> As for glue, I've always just used Titebond since it serves more as a filler
> than anything else and mostly squeezes out anyway.
> The plus side of investing in the clamps is you can invest in longer lengths
> of pipe to use them for case repairs on pianos, bench repairs, wherever you
> need a clamp of whatever length you need since you can combine lengths of
> pipe w/couplers as well as get longer lengths.
> 
> Mike
> --
> Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing
> is to not stop questioning.-- Albert Einstein
> 
> 
> 
> Michael Magness
> Magness Piano Service
> 608-786-4404
> www.IFixPianos.com
> email mike at ifixpianos.com
> 
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