Upright pinblock question

[Michael Magness]

On 10/29/07, Dean May <deanmay at pianorebuilders.com> wrote:
>
>  Yes, Home Depot, Lowes, any hardware store. Look in the plumbing section.
> It's just a cap that is glued on the end of a section of plastic pipe to
> stub it off.
>
>
>
> Take one of the nuts with you to find the right size cap to fit over the
> end. If the cap is a little big you can fill it up with caulk or GOOP glue.
>
>
>
> If you really want to dress up the back paint all the posts and back in a
> flat black latex.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Dean*
>
> Dean May             cell 812.239.3359
>
> PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272
>
> Terre Haute IN  47802
>  ------------------------------
>
> *From:* pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] *On
> Behalf Of *pianolover 88
> *Sent:* Monday, October 29, 2007 11:18 PM
> *To:* Pianotech List
> *Subject:* RE: Upright pinblock question
>
>
>
> Thanks Dean! I was actually thinking of cutting some felt circles to cover
> each recessed area. Where can I find/buy the cpvc caps? Would H. Depot have
> them, or is it something I would have to make myself? Thanks!
>
> Terry Peterson
>
> > From: deanmay at pianorebuilders.com
> > To: pianotech at ptg.org
> > Subject: RE: Upright pinblock question
> > Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 22:33:20 -0400
> >
> > Looks Great! You should try dressing up those nuts on the backside with
> 1/2"
> > cpvc caps.
> >
> > Dean
> >
> > Dean May cell 812.239.3359
> >
> > PianoRebuilders.com 812.235.5272
> >
> > Terre Haute IN 47802
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On
> Behalf
> > Of pianolover 88
> > Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 9:42 PM
> > To: PIANOTECH at PTG.ORG
> > Subject: FW: Upright pinblock question
> >
> >
> > Just modified the the job. To be on the safe(er) side, I ended up using
> > super strong GRADE 8 Hex head 5/16" bolts (Same diameter as factory
> screws)
> > since flat heads w/cone shape under head were available only in grade 2!
> I
> > then used small locking washers, and put the bolts from inside to back,
> > using extra large 1 1/2' outer diameter 'Fender' washers. I also used a
> 1.5"
> > spade bit to counter sink. I think it should hold up pretty well indeed.
> > Thanks for all the help!
> > ________________________________
> > Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 11:58:28 -0500
> > From: IFixPianos at yahoo.com
> > To: pianotech at ptg.org; pianolover88 at hotmail.com
> > Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question
> >
> >
> >
> > On 10/28/07, John Ross <jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca> wrote:
> > Why don't you just get a piece of angle iron, then you would also have
> > rigidity.
> > The original lag bolts are normally close to the top, so I think angle
> iron
> > would work.
> > You might have to route an indent, so the lid will lie flat.
> > John M. Ross
> > Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
> > jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: 'gordon stelter' <lclgcnp at yahoo.com>
> > To: 'Pianotech List' <pianotech at ptg.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:18 PM
> > Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question
> >
> >
> > > I put the bolts in from the front, but with a
> > > BUNCH of fender washers under the nut on the back:
> > > lest the nuts/washers get sucked into the wood.
> > > ( Nobody should put an upright right against the wall,
> > > anyway. )
> > > On a very rare and costly upright I may soon be
> > > working on, I intend to have a 1/8 inch ( at least )
> > > steelplate made to stretch all the way across the
> > > back, with holes drilled in it, for the bolts to go
> > > through. Not very pretty, but the most stable,
> > > long-lasting solution. ( Should help keep the back
> > > from 'cupping', too! )
> > >
> > > Peace,
> > > G
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Willem Blees <wimblees at aol.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >>
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> >
> > Hi Terry,
> >
> > I have done the exact repair you are contemplating on the exact piano
> you
> > are referring to. First of all, the reason it seperated is because
> Kohler &
> > Cambell in their very wise woodworkers way made their back structure
> from
> > spruce and glued the pinblock to it. Since spruce expands/contracts at a
> > differing rate than maple it seperated at the glue joint! Surprise!
> > Now to the fix, first of all you need PIPE clamps not c-clamps c-clamps
> will
> > warp and not give you nearly the holding power that pipe clamps will, I
> know
> > I've tried both! You can get Pony brand pipe clamps at any home center,
> get
> > the 3/4' , you can also get the threaded pipe you'll need, I'd get 12'
> > lengths, that's long enough for any old uprights you may want to bolt in
> the
> > future. I have about 8 clamps but usually only have space for 6 of them.
> > Place a clamp near each screw bore the screw hole and pinblock behind it
> all
> > the way through, I use 1/2' carriage bolts about 1/2' longer than the
> > thickness of back and plate, If there isn't room for 1/2' use 7/16' or
> if
> > that's still too big then you have to use 3/8' but then go to the grade
> 5
> > hardened bolts, the standard grade 3/8' snap off way too easily. They
> come
> > in half sizes to 6'. I use a large flat washer under the head of the
> bolt,
> > one large enough for the square heade to fit through it but for the
> round
> > lip to catch on it, in back, a small flat washer and a lock washer and
> nut
> > in front against the plate. Snug them tight until the bolt tries to
> turn, If
> > they turn too soon, put a clamp on them at an angle to hold it while you
> > tighten.
> > There is no need to lower tension since your clamps will maintain the
> hold
> > that the screws did. You will need a good drill, a cordless won't do the
> > job, something with at least 4 amps of power. A good metal bit and
> depending
> > on how thick the back is, perhaps a longer auger bit to finish out the
> hole,
> > lengthwise.
> > As for glue, I've always just used Titebond since it serves more as a
> filler
> > than anything else and mostly squeezes out anyway.
> > The plus side of investing in the clamps is you can invest in longer
> lengths
> > of pipe to use them for case repairs on pianos, bench repairs, wherever
> you
> > need a clamp of whatever length you need since you can combine lengths
> of
> > pipe w/couplers as well as get longer lengths.
> >
> > Mike
> > --
> > Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important
> thing
> > is to not stop questioning.-- Albert Einstein
> >
> >
> >
> > Michael Magness
> > Magness Piano Service
> > 608-786-4404
> > www.IFixPianos.com <http://www.ifixpianos.com/>
> > email mike at ifixpianos.com
> >
> > ________________________________
> > Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You! Get 'em!
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
> > http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us<http://www.reallivemoms.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us>
> >
>  ------------------------------
>
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>

Hi Terry,

Glad to see the modification, that's what I was talking about! Now you have
a repair that you don't have to be concerned about in the future, Great
Job!!
Mike

-- 
Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing
is to not stop questioning.-- Albert Einstein



Michael Magness
Magness Piano Service
608-786-4404
www.IFixPianos.com
email mike at ifixpianos.com
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