Plate Lettering

[PianoTek4u at aol.com]

Transfer letters and numbers are not necessarily a thing of the past.   I 
found the website of the company that made the transfers I still have on  hand.
 
Go to:  _www.letraset.com_ (http://www.letraset.com)  and see  if they have 
the size and style of letters and numbers that are preferred.
 
Tony Bajada
 
 
In a message dated 8/2/2008 3:24:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tompiano at bellsouth.net writes:

Jon
Thanks for this tip. Just ordered the pen.
Actually I've been  using a set up similar to this but not as nice. I'll let 
you know the  results.
Incidentally, I had put out a query about finding rub-on transfer  numbers 
for string scale markings. I've struck out at all of the hobby and  art 
stores online.  There's plenty of lettering, but the transfer  numbers seem 
to be a thing of the past. If anyone has a specific store  which is handling 
the transfer numbers, I'd me mighty appreciative.
Tom  Servinsky
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jon Page"  <jonpage at comcast.net>
To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Friday,  August 01, 2008 7:15 PM
Subject: Plate Lettering


> Felt tip  markers do not work well in the long run, they fade and shrink in 
>  from the edges.
>
> I have been using a fluid writing pen:
>  http://www.dickblick.com/zz649/11/
>
> with water-based black  acrylic paint, thin size for outline, thick for 
>  fill-in.
>
> Gild the plate and spray clear finish coat, touching  the plate will cause 
> oxidation
> down the line. It is not  advisable to apply a lacquer topcoat over water 
> based
>  products, they are not compatible. It might lift them off or cause them to 
 
> crackle,
> been there, done that.
>
> Applying to  clear coat, the water based material can be wiped off if a 
> mistake is  made
> without compromising the gilded surface. I used to use black  lacquer and 
> there was no
> such thing as a small mistake. The  gloss black acrylic does not need a top 
> coat.
>
>  Application is a bit pains-taking for a primo job. Outline first. Apply  
> the left edge on all characters and the top. Go back and do the right  edge 
> and the bottom. Go back and fill in.
> If you try to do  the entire character all at once it can pool too thick 
> and run. A  neater, faster job is accomplished with outlining first. Heck, 
> if you  have a real steady hand you can leave
> the treble logo on S&S's as  outline characters just as original.  I can't 
>  :-(
>
> These fluid writing pens produce sharp, clean characters,  better than a 
> brush;
> especially for us untrained  calligraphers.
> -- 
>
> Regards,
>
> Jon  Page
> 







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