Plate Lettering

[Paul McCloud]

List:
	It is possible to make your own decals and rub down letters.  You can get
decal paper and print from your printer. This decal paper makes the
water-slide type decals.  Google "make decal" and you'll find how to make
your own rub-down decals too.  You could make your own rub down
letters/numbers, or just make a decal of a whole serial number, or
whatever.  If you can get it into your compter, you can print it and make a
decal of it.  More work than purchasing ready-made, but it is possible.
	Paul McCloud
	San Diego

Paul McCloud
Service Technician for PianoSD.com
www.pianoservsd.com 
Created with free BlueVoda software:
http://www.vodahost.com/partner/idevaffiliate.php?id=9223_1_3_9



> [Original Message]
> From: Tom Servinsky <tompiano at bellsouth.net>
> To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Date: 08/02/2008 8:20:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Plate Lettering
>
> Up until last year I was able to purchase 4 full sheets of numerals ( 8,
10, 
> 12, and 14 font size) for about $4 a pack. Those packets have disappeared 
> from the likes of Office Depot, Staples, and most hobby stores.
Apparently 
> the rub on numbers packets were aimed at the architects doing blueprint 
> prep. Most blueprint work is ( now) done digitally, thus the demand for 
> number transfers has shrunk.
> Decals Unlimited carries the numbers for about $20 for one set of number 
> transfers which is outrageous. I understand the need for them to recoup 
> their cost due to the cost of ordering for x amt. of specialty transfers. 
> I'm just amazed that the supply of generic rub on numbers has disappeared 
> from the shelves as quickly as they have.
> What are the rest of you using for string scale markings? I'm thinking of 
> going to a series of rubber stamps but would prefer the clean lines of
the 
> rub on transfers. Any thoughts?
> Tom Servinsky
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Will Truitt" <surfdog at metrocast.net>
> To: "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 7:02 AM
> Subject: RE: Plate Lettering
>
>
> > Hi Tom:
> >
> > If my memory serves me correctly (which it does not always), Decals
> > Unlimited sells (or at least did sell) a sheet with the whole and half 
> > size
> > stringing gauges.  I have used them in the past and they do look very 
> > nice.
> >
> >
> > Will Truitt
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On 
> > Behalf
> > Of Tom Servinsky
> > Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 5:23 AM
> > To: Pianotech List
> > Subject: Re: Plate Lettering
> >
> > Jon
> > Thanks for this tip. Just ordered the pen.
> > Actually I've been using a set up similar to this but not as nice. I'll 
> > let
> > you know the results.
> > Incidentally, I had put out a query about finding rub-on transfer
numbers
> > for string scale markings. I've struck out at all of the hobby and art
> > stores online.  There's plenty of lettering, but the transfer numbers
seem
> > to be a thing of the past. If anyone has a specific store which is 
> > handling
> > the transfer numbers, I'd me mighty appreciative.
> > Tom Servinsky
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Jon Page" <jonpage at comcast.net>
> > To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
> > Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 7:15 PM
> > Subject: Plate Lettering
> >
> >
> >> Felt tip markers do not work well in the long run, they fade and
shrink 
> >> in
> >
> >> from the edges.
> >>
> >> I have been using a fluid writing pen:
> >> http://www.dickblick.com/zz649/11/
> >>
> >> with water-based black acrylic paint, thin size for outline, thick for
> >> fill-in.
> >>
> >> Gild the plate and spray clear finish coat, touching the plate will
cause
> >> oxidation
> >> down the line. It is not advisable to apply a lacquer topcoat over
water
> >> based
> >> products, they are not compatible. It might lift them off or cause
them 
> >> to
> >
> >> crackle,
> >> been there, done that.
> >>
> >> Applying to clear coat, the water based material can be wiped off if a
> >> mistake is made
> >> without compromising the gilded surface. I used to use black lacquer
and
> >> there was no
> >> such thing as a small mistake. The gloss black acrylic does not need a 
> >> top
> >
> >> coat.
> >>
> >> Application is a bit pains-taking for a primo job. Outline first. Apply
> >> the left edge on all characters and the top. Go back and do the right 
> >> edge
> >
> >> and the bottom. Go back and fill in.
> >> If you try to do the entire character all at once it can pool too thick
> >> and run. A neater, faster job is accomplished with outlining first.
Heck,
> >> if you have a real steady hand you can leave
> >> the treble logo on S&S's as outline characters just as original.  I
can't
> >> :-(
> >>
> >> These fluid writing pens produce sharp, clean characters, better than a
> >> brush;
> >> especially for us untrained calligraphers.
> >> -- 
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> Jon Page
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > 
>
>