That works, I just use key bed shims or veneer when needed so that the set up can always be quickly returned to a true and square set up. The elevation is done with the depth of cut on the router. I've thought about something like your describing, Jon, with the router base being able to slide on the angle cuts of the 2x4s, then you would not have to worry about only making one pass down the length of the bridge with the router's track being lower on one side of the bridge, sort of like a banked turn on a race track. That just got way to complicated for me though. Attached are photos of some sleds on the router this time, but they're cutting down some rib stock, same idea. Fenton ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon Page" <jonpage at comcast.net> To: <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 4:39 AM Subject: Decapping bridges with a router > How's this for ideas of how to fabricate the sled. > > Take a suitable length of 2x4. > Determine the slope > Cut the slope across the broad side, then cut in half > > Now you have the sleds for the slope and only need to shim the bottoms > for suitable elevation along the length. > > > Or you could make a platform from plywood. I use this for bass bridges. > Cut a center section out for the bit to extend through. > In mounting blocks that are glued to the underside are screws which act > as adjustable feet. Adjust the height at each end above the bridge > surface. > Make several passes with the router, double checking bridge height from > the board and refine platform height as needed. > -- > > Regards, > > Jon Page > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ribcrowning02600.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 44118 bytes Desc: not available Url : https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080802/0fc69e14/attachment-0001.jpg
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