Decapping bridges with a router

[Gene Nelson]

I assume that as one's rebuilding experience broadens, the need to retain 
the original cap diminishes?
Gene
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fenton Murray" <fmurray at cruzio.com>
To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: Decapping bridges with a router


> That works, I just use key bed shims or veneer when needed so that the set
> up can always be quickly returned to a true and square set up. The 
> elevation
> is done with the depth of cut on the router.
> I've thought about something like your describing, Jon, with the router 
> base
> being able to slide on the angle cuts of the 2x4s, then you would not have
> to worry about only making one pass down the length of the bridge with the
> router's track being lower on one side of the bridge, sort of like a 
> banked
> turn on a race track. That just got way to complicated for me though.
> Attached are photos of some sleds on the router this time, but they're
> cutting down some rib stock, same idea.
> Fenton
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jon Page" <jonpage at comcast.net>
> To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 4:39 AM
> Subject: Decapping bridges with a router
>
>
>> How's this for ideas of how to fabricate the sled.
>>
>> Take a suitable length of 2x4.
>> Determine the slope
>> Cut the slope across the broad side, then cut in half
>>
>> Now you have the sleds for the slope and only need to shim the bottoms
>> for suitable elevation along the length.
>>
>>
>> Or you could make a platform from plywood. I use this for bass bridges.
>> Cut a center section out for the bit to extend through.
>> In mounting blocks that are glued to the underside are screws which act
>> as adjustable feet. Adjust the height at each end above the bridge
>> surface.
>> Make several passes with the router, double checking bridge height from
>> the board and refine platform height as needed.
>> -- 
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Jon Page
>>
>>
>