Doweled and Fully Fit Pinblocks

[Fenton Murray]

Doweled and Fully Fit PinblocksThank you Jon,
Very similar to my approach. See photo. If I'm reading right when you're done you will have a void on the top of the bass end. What then do you do with it?
Fenton
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jon Page 
  To: pianotech at ptg.org 
  Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 6:00 PM
  Subject: Doweled and Fully Fit Pinblocks


    I would love to read procedures for nailing this left, right, tight at both ends fit. It is, after all one that can be seen by every one.


  Before removing the plate, I drill two holes (~5/64")  in the treble and two in the bass to
  make  a pattern of the block perimeter.  Fit a large piece of paper into the corner  and cut
  for any angle between the stretcher and side. Punch index holes.


  Once the new, oversize block is fitted and screws installed, drill thru the index holes into the new block, remove block and index pattern off the holes. Draw the corner on each end
  and connect the ends with a straightedge. This duplicates the exact dimensions of the old block. Cut out pencil line for the sides on a band saw, leave some pencil line on the front
  and dress on a joiner.   Side-to-side fine fitting is done with a file or belt sander.


  Since the bass end only has a small area I want the bottom of the block to have full contact.
  To get the block in and out easily during fitting, sand away material from the top end on the bass and the bottom end on the treble; a parallelogram shape.


  This will produce a fit with no sideways play.  If the bearing is OK, the block is glued
  on the three sides, then plate is then installed and the block screwed in place. Clamps
  press the assembly until the glue cures.  Then remove plate and install screws at each
  end into the inner rim.


  I don't dowel into the stretcher, just leave the glue hold it. What good are a few small dowels anyway.

  Regards,

  Jon Page
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