Doweled and Fully Fit Pinblocks

[A440A at aol.com]

<< I would love to read procedures for nailing this left, right, tight at 
both ends fit. It is, after all one that can be seen by every one. >>

   I can usually get a block in with no more than .020" sideplay, and that is 
because of bad eyes, I suppose.  There are times when there is no sideplay, 
but fitting is more difficult,(though as Jon says, rounding off the opposing 
edges will allow it to slip in and out without damaging the finish. 
   I drill two .050" holes in each end of the old block, through the plate, 
before I take it out. Once the plate is removed, and before I cut the block 
out,  I push a #  20 centerpin into each hole and take a using a dial micrometer, 
I measure the distance from the pins to the sides and the proximal pin to the 
stretcher.  This can be done to the thousandth of an inch.  Record these 
numbers.  Once the new, oversize block is fitted to the plate, use the holes in 
the plate to drill new index holes in the new block.  Get the micrometer back 
out, and measuring from the holes, place a chisel mark where the sides and 
stretcher used to be.  I can then cut the block with the kerf just touching the 
chisel marks. I then put the block in the piano, screw the plate to it, and make 
sure the plate is back where it was originally.  Done carefully, it will be 
within a couple of thousandths.  I then glue the block to the case sides and 
stretcher while it is still attached to the plate, (which is held  in its 
original position).  To duplicate the original position,  sometimes I have to prop up 
the tail of the plate to match the position it had with the strings off, rim 
bolts out, yet still screwed to the block. Some of these plates are flexed 
over the nose bolts, and this is the way of maintaining that, if desired.  
   After the glue cures, I lift the plate out and install dowels into the 
case and stretcher.  I can then bolt the plate back in, knowing that it was just 
like originally.  After that, I can move the nose bolts for bearing purposes, 
knowing where I am so that I don't overflex the thing. 
   I do like Jon's idea of a pattern for the end angles, might try that on 
this one. 
Hope that helps. 
Regards, 
  



Ed Foote RPT 
http://www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/index.html
www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html
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