Schwander return spring loops

[Thomas Cole]

Wim,

If people are taking 4 - 6 hours it's because they are doing more than 
just replacing the cords, like tightening screws, filing hammers, lubing 
the butt leather, etc. All fine things to do but the job of replacing 
the cords alone should not take more than about 2 hours for a Yamaha 
that has butt plates. If you are working with the earlier type flanges, 
or if the flanges have problems, then I would go with new parts.

Tom Driscoll and I have both given procedures where you leave the 
flanges and bridle tapes attached, greatly speeding up the task. If the 
flanges are left on the rail undisturbed (and screws tightened if 
needed), then the hammer grooves should still line up nicely when 
reassembled. No traveling necessary and the screws will stay tight on 
the "seasoned" flanges.

Tom Cole

Willem Blees wrote:
> I haven't had to do this yet, but I do have a couple of pianos that 
> are ready to have new cords put on. I have thought about replacing the 
> cords, but with it taking 4 - 6 hours, wouldn't it be "easier" to put 
> on new flanges, and travel the hammers?
>
> Willem (Wim) Blees, RPT
> Piano Tuner/Technician
> Honolulu, HI
> 808-349-2943
> www.bleespiano.com
> Author of
> The Business of Piano Tuning
> available from Potter Press
> www.pianotuning.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul McCloud <pmc033 at earthlink.net>
> To: innuuuu at yahoo.com, Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Sat, 30 Aug 2008 9:05 am
> Subject: RE: Schwander return spring loops
>
> Hi, Terence:
>     I've done this job many times.  There are more ways than one to do 
> this, but here's what I've been doing.  Put your action in a cradle, then:
>     1) Remove the hammer rest rail.
>     2) Remove the bridle straps.
>     3) Most Yamaha consoles have flange plates, so you can leave the 
> flanges on the rail.  Loosen the flange screw and remove the hammer 
> butts/hammers.
>     4) Use a thin saw blade to scrape out the silk cord from the slots 
> in the flange.
>     5) Use a 5/8" dowel and wrap your new cord (recommended 
> "spiderwire" ) fishing line around it, then slice all the loops at 
> once with a razor blade.  The diameter of the rod makes the loops 
> uniform size.
>     6) Use your glue of choice to secure one end of the loop to the 
> flange slot.  Go back and glue the other side.  I've used CA gel glue, 
> using an accelerator.  Sets up fast, but use care it doesn't gum up 
> the flange bushing or leave buildup on the flange surface that will 
> interfere with the butt when you reassemble it.  I've also used pvc-e 
> glue. 
>     7) Reassemble the butts/hammers, bridle tapes, rest rail.  Done.  
> I'd estimate 4-6 hours.
>     Play some music or books-on-tape while you do a tedious, boring 
> job.  Have fun.
>     Paul McCloud
>     
>  
> Paul McCloud
> Service Technician for PianoSD.com
> www.pianoservsd.com <http://www.pianoservsd.com/>
> Created with free BlueVoda software:
> http://www.vodahost.com/partner/idevaffiliate.php?id=9223_1_3_9
>  
>  
>  
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     *From:* Terence Miller <mailto:innuuuu at yahoo.com>
>     *To: *pianotech list <mailto:pianotech at ptg.org>
>     *Sent:* 08/30/2008 11:38:27 AM
>     *Subject:* Schwander return spring loops
>
>     Dear List
>
>     I am grateful in advance for whomever points me to the most
>     efficient procedure for replacing these cord-loops in a mid-80s
>     Yamaha console.
>
>     Most all of the cords have failed not at the spring but at one
>     side of the flange or the other where the cord begins its life as
>     a loop.
>
>     thank you
>
>     Terry Miller
>     Napa, CA
>
>
>     Oh,
>
>     take the rest of the day off!
>
>
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