Pinblock transfer agent

David Chadwick chadwick61 at cox.net
Mon Feb 25 18:35:23 MST 2008


John, 
I have used regular clear packing tape. The epoxy does not stick to it and the tape will pull right off. I used it a lot when I was making replacement ribs in wooden boat hulls with multi lams to replace the cracked steamed ones. I've also done several pinblocks that way.

David C. 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: John Voigt 
  To: Pianotech List 
  Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 3:00 PM
  Subject: RE: Pinblock transfer agent


  What do you use as a release agent?

  John Voigt
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Farrell [mailto:mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com]
    Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 11:37 AM
    To: Pianotech List
    Subject: Re: Pinblock transfer agent


    I've been using a system that works perfectly the first time every time. I cut the block for a reasonably close fit and then apply an appropriate amount of High Density Adhesive Filler thickened West System epoxy using the West System two-step bonding method. I apply a release agent to the plate flange and screw the block to the plate.

    Wait till epoxy cures, remove block from plate, check fit - and I find it perfect every time!!!

    What, are you some traditional woodwoorking guru 'er sumptin'?

    Terry Farrell
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      I have experimented with chalk, graphite and crayon and maybe other products that I've forgotten to show witnessing between plate and pinblock for fitting, and for one reason or another I've not been completely satisfied with any of them. Nothing seems as good as the original graphite coating used by S&S. This original agent works through the fitting process until I get to the very last couple of passes when I've got almost a complete fit and need a couple more re-applications. 
      I would so much appreciate hearing what you use, where you get it and how you mix & apply it.
      Thanks,
      Fenton
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