[pianotech] pinblock fit

[Will Truitt]

Hi Les:

 

I think the problem is that doing so would make everything a "very solid
fit".  You could not control the outflow of the epoxy onto the plate and
tuning pins and elsewhere,  and solidifying them too.    

 

Plus, if anyone ever tried to replace this pinblock, I'm pretty sure they
would be cursing you for this "very solid fit" when they tried to remove
it..

 

Will

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Leslie Bartlett
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 7:28 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] pinblock fit

 

I'm really ignorant about this stuff, but the small piano could be turned
upside down and epoxy run down in those spaces to make a very solid fit.
Would that make any sense?
les bartlett

Will Truitt wrote: 

Hi Debra:

 

As a followup to Marcel's point, I would start by removing the action.  Then
take a large hand mirror and a strong light and examine the fit between the
plate flange and the pinblock for gaps visually.  You can also take a feeler
gauge of about .004 and insert it into any gap you find there and run it
along between the plate flange and pinblock until you hit resistance.  Chalk
the beginning and end points on the pinblock.  Do this along the length of
the pinblock face, and you will then have an idea of how much contact you
actually have.  Another clue is to look at the tuning pins.  If you see gaps
at the back of the tuning pin (toward the stretcher) and the pins look like
they are pressing forward against the plate bushings, that is another sign
of poor fitting.  

 

I have made tapered hardwood shims and tapped them between the plate flange
and the pinblock with glue, after lowering tension.  Upon retuning, I find
this helps stabilize the offending instruments.

 

All that being said, Ron Nossaman's and others remarks on the poor scaling
in the tenor area are right on the money.  Scalewise, it's a barking dog in
that area.

 

Will Truitt

 

F

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