[pianotech] Cracks in soundboard and eye bolt repair

John Ross jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca
Sun Nov 30 11:55:04 PST 2008


You are making it too hard.
I drill a hole through the rib, so that a drywall screw runs free. Use 
course thread screws.
The screw has an aggressive tip, it goes into the soundboard, and draws it 
back to the rib, which you have applied glue to.
You can leave the screw in, or remove it when the glue dries.
You could remove the screw, drill a hole, and insert a hammer shank cut off 
flush with the rib, and board.
This results in a neat looking job.
When looking for the cause of a buzz, don't neglect to check the edge of the 
soundboard, to make sure it is securely attached, as this can also cause a 
buzz.
John Ross
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geoff Sykes" <thetuner at ivories52.com>
To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Cracks in soundboard and eye bolt repair


Yup, that's what I meant. A small flat-head machine screw would almost
disappear into the soundboard. The T-nut would be the kind that has the
little barbs on it so that it would hook in tight into the rib. I'm thinking
a little white glue in the space between the rib and the soundboard before
tightening couldn't hurt and would make for a pretty secure bond.

-- Geoff

• Geoff Sykes, RPT
• 626-799-7545
• www.ivories52.com


-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of John Dorr
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 7:42 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Cracks in soundboard and eye bolt repair


Wim,

Do you mean to insert the eye bolt HORIZONTALLY into the rib, then, and
align
the hole so that the screw then is inserted through it and is screwed upward

into the sound board from the bottom?  Doesn't this assume a lot of drawing
power of a small wood screw into a thin piece of spruce?  Does this leave a
screw tip showing through the soundboard from above?  Or would you use a
machine screw and washers/nuts to spread the load?

Geoff,

Are you thinking of putting the T-nut VERTICALLY through the rib and then
screwing a machine screw into it down from above?  This might be another
option (and worth exploring!), but I don't think it's what he meant.  We'll
see when he answers the query above.

Interesting thread!

John Dorr, RPT
Helena, MT



Sender: "Geoff Sykes" <thetuner at ivories52.com>

Don't you mean something like a T-nut? That actually makes a lot of sense.
Thanks.

-- Geoff



• Geoff Sykes, RPT



Geoff

As David explained, the buzzing is the vibrations between the soundboard and

the ribs. One way to "fix" this, is to pull the soundboard to the ribs with
the use of an screw through an eye bolt. (the kind you put a hook through on
a
screen door, only very small). Attach the eye screw into the rib, and screw
a
small screw into the soundboard, through the eye. It will draw the
soundboard
to the rib. To make it more permanent, squeeze a little glue between the
soundboard and the rib.

You can do this from under near, laying on your back, but it will be easier
if
you tip the piano on it's side.

This is certainly not a perfect solution to the problem, and you might not
be
able to get to all the cracks/ribs, but it might eliminate enough of the
buzzing to get you by for a couple of more years. .

Willem (Wim) Blees, RPT
Piano Tuner/Technician





No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.200 / Virus Database: 270.9.11/1820 - Release Date: 11/29/2008
6:52 PM
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.200 / Virus Database: 270.9.11/1820 - Release Date: 11/29/2008
6:52 PM




John M.Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada. 





More information about the pianotech mailing list

This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC