waves

[Will Truitt]

Hi Fenton:

 

Interesting to hear of your surfing tales.  I too followed the long board
rise, fall, and rise again too.  I started surfing in Ocean City, Maryland
in 1964 in the early days of East Coast surfing, riding a 9'6" Yater.  Fun
waves, fast folding beach break walls when it was good, and hollow too.  I
surfed Bethany Towers, where my late friend Bill Wise broke his neck in 1965
and became a quadriplegic for the rest of his life.  (He wrote an article
for Surfer Magazine about that in the early 90's).  I surfed on the West
Coast for about a year in the late sixties, mostly North of San Francisco in
Bolinas and Stinson Beach, although I surfed in San Diego some as well
(Blacks never broke when I was there)  I can still remember watching the
Potato Patch breaking outside San Francisco during the Mother of All Swells
in December, 1969. (50, 60, 70? Feet)

 

When I moved to New Hampshire in 1981, I started surfing here and in Maine.
Summers can be characterized by long, soul killing flat spells, but spring,
fall, and winter has consistent, and occasionally large surf.  The biggest
surf I rode in my life was about 15 foot at Rye on the Rocks ( a point
break), coming from Gabriel, the largest East Coast hurricane ever.  It
stalled out in the shipping lanes 1000 miles away and sent 9 days of
overhead, deep water groundswell at New England.  Mostly I surfed with a
crew of older guys whose company I really enjoyed and we had lots of fun
together.  My favorite size is chest to head high too.  

 

I stopped a few years ago.  It finally got too crowded up here and I can't
say I miss the two hour drive each way, which I would do several times a
week.

 

I have had two Grand Passions in my life.  Surfing and Pianos.  I am doubly
blessed to have two things to be  so enthused about.  

 

Will Truitt

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Fenton Murray
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 11:54 AM
To: Pianotech List
Subject: Re: waves

 

A wave thread!? David Love and I just finished some reminiscing off list
about this. Santa Cruz is home break for me for most of my 54 years.
Pleasure Point for the last 25, I followed the long board rise and fall and
rise again. Lot's of mat surfing back in the 60's. I used to go down to
Rincon, and a little place called Refugio above Santa Barbara, Swami's,
Blacks by S.D., San O. (love San Onofre) and wonderful Malibu. Southern Cal
has a wonderful feel to it, but I think Santa Cruz has got so many breaks it
might just be Surf City, and I live here! There a beach break (Manresa) 5
miles from my house I go to sometimes, great work out with occasional sand
bars producing some perfect peelers. I surfed a little in Hawaii on the
North Shore of Oahu, but in the summer, got great waves in Maui at Honolua
Bay. I'm basically scared of big waves, but love chest to head high. I
played in rock bands in Colorado all through the '70's and learned to ski
there, skiing's a little rough for me now, but surfing is so fluid, I'm
virtually never injured. If the water becomes so polluted it's burning out
there, I'll still surf. I'm careful after the rains by the river mouths,
that's about all you can do.

Fenton

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Steve Blasyak <mailto:atuneforyou at gmail.com>  

To: pianotech at ptg.org 

Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 8:31 PM

Subject: waves

 

Fenton were do you reside/surf???

Rick B the water is not as polluted as you may think. I've been surfing the
same waters for about 35 years and it hasn't killed me yet. There are much
more pollutants in the air we breath.

All I know is the other day Wednesday I think, Anaheim was the hottest spot
in the nation at 104. I drove down to the beach at about 1:00pm. It was one
of the most beautiful days of the year. Glassy all afternoon, after a two
hour surf I sat on the beach reading a magazine and eating a late lunch.
Almost no one was there because the summer is over. I thought to myself, I
love Southern California in the fall.

Steve Blasyak
Orange County Ca

Pura Vida

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