waves

[Fenton Murray]

A wave thread!? David Love and I just finished some reminiscing off list about this. Santa Cruz is home break for me for most of my 54 years. Pleasure Point for the last 25, I followed the long board rise and fall and rise again. Lot's of mat surfing back in the 60's. I used to go down to Rincon, and a little place called Refugio above Santa Barbara, Swami's, Blacks by S.D., San O. (love San Onofre) and wonderful Malibu. Southern Cal has a wonderful feel to it, but I think Santa Cruz has got so many breaks it might just be Surf City, and I live here! There a beach break (Manresa) 5 miles from my house I go to sometimes, great work out with occasional sand bars producing some perfect peelers. I surfed a little in Hawaii on the North Shore of Oahu, but in the summer, got great waves in Maui at Honolua Bay. I'm basically scared of big waves, but love chest to head high. I played in rock bands in Colorado all through the '70's and learned to ski there, skiing's a little rough for me now, but surfing is so fluid, I'm virtually never injured. If the water becomes so polluted it's burning out there, I'll still surf. I'm careful after the rains by the river mouths, that's about all you can do.
Fenton
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Steve Blasyak 
  To: pianotech at ptg.org 
  Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 8:31 PM
  Subject: waves


  Fenton were do you reside/surf???

  Rick B the water is not as polluted as you may think. I've been surfing the same waters for about 35 years and it hasn't killed me yet. There are much more pollutants in the air we breath.

  All I know is the other day Wednesday I think, Anaheim was the hottest spot in the nation at 104. I drove down to the beach at about 1:00pm. It was one of the most beautiful days of the year. Glassy all afternoon, after a two hour surf I sat on the beach reading a magazine and eating a late lunch. Almost no one was there because the summer is over. I thought to myself, I love Southern California in the fall.

  Steve Blasyak
  Orange County Ca

  Pura Vida
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