I use a 10:1 solution but it's a high solids lacquer so the ratio is less meaningful. Typically I will lacquer the entire hammer in the bass section and about the upper 1/3 of the piano. Often the last octave gets two applications. I apply only from the sides as I don't want anything getting to the crown but I do want it under the crown. Flexible shoulders, firm under the crown is what I like. Bacon felt hammer lack the firmness under the crown. With the monochords in the bass you can go over the top and soak the hammer. Similarly in the top treble just soak the hammer right over the crown. Be more cautious as you ascend the bichords and if you have a transition bridge be careful over the crown there as well. Allow the lacquer to cure for at least a week before making a final judgment as the lacquer continues to harden. In fact, I prefer to wait longer combined with some playing time. The hammers will develop as the lacquer continues to harden. If you can be patient you will be better off. If you need a bit more bite in the bass use some keytop solution and a couple of drops on the crown. It needles out better if you don't like it but don't use it to soak the hammer. For some reason it doesn't work as well I find. On these boards as you describe the Renner blue tends to be too hard through the tenor and treble and I think they are the wrong type of shape for some Steinways. Too round. Round is good on some pianos where the upper partials tend to be too dominant but on many Steinways you often want more upper partial development so a bit more pointy helps, I think. The Weickert felt works well on these boards with less manipulation (hardening) required. But the Bacon felt, once it develops, has a very luscious and warm sound and will develop plenty of power though it won't blow you out of the water. It won't be the right hammer if they like a big pop and lots of brightness, but for a round, warm tone they are great. Just as an example I put a set on a 1980s Steinway B recently, small home, didn't want too much power. It was a bit soft at first but with some judicious hardening and a player who practices a couple of hours a day the piano is now incredible, the voicing very stable and he wouldn't trade it for anything. Original board though I did some work when I restrung it with new treble bridge cap, increased bridge height, modified scaling, minor stuff. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Jude Reveley (Absolute Piano) Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 6:15 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Ron N. design update I don't think the top really needs much. It's more the bass that's giving me a hard time. I tried a very moderate juicing 8:1 acetone to lacquer. I also tried some "battery voicing" ala Andre Oorebeek. Finally I experimented with 4:1 acetone:lacquer on the shoulders for one hammer, a dousing from the core on another, and just on the tip with some key dope on yet another. The dousing gave me the closets to what I'm looking for but still not as good as the string sounds when I strike it with a Renner Blue. I think Ronsens Wurzen or VFG, perhaps even the Weickert would have been a better choice. What ratio & technique have you used successfully with the Bacon felt, David? Jude Reveley, RPT Absolute Piano Restoration, LLC www.absolute-piano.com ----- Original Message ----- From: David Love <mailto:davidlovepianos at comcast.net> To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 4:16 PM Subject: Re: [pianotech] Ron N. design update On these pianos with Bacon felt I typically have to harden them a bit. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20090608/013c9bb4/attachment-0001.htm>
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