[pianotech] sluggish (was no subject)

[David Ilvedson]

This is a good point.   If the neighboring keys have the same leading or lack of leading as the problem key, it is something other than adding lead.   

David Ilvedson, RPT
Pacifica, CA  94044

----- Original message ----------------------------------------
From: wimblees at aol.com
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Received: 6/12/2009 3:13:22 PM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] sluggish (was no subject)


>Matthew

>Before delving into adding leads, etc, I think you need to re-evaluate the situation, 
>because I don't think this would be a key weight issue, at least not on just one key. 
>There are other reasons why a key doesn't return. 

>First, diagnose the key itself. Make sure it doesn't hang up on anything, including 
>the key bushings, the balance rail hole, or adjacent keys. Compare the key in 
>question with a neighboring key.?By pushing down on the back of the key, you 
>should be able to feel a?slight difference?in resistance. On older pianos, especially 
>spinets where the key has a big angle in it, the balance rail bushing wears out?on 
>one?side. That will interfere with the key's movement.??It would be much easier to 
>rebush just the one side of that key, than to add lead weights. Keith?likes jiffy 
>leads, but when I?have found keys with jiffy leads, they might help the key move up 
>and down, but they don't solve the real problems. It?takes a little bit of exploring, 
>but I've?always been able to find the real problem, and?solve it. ? 

>If you're sure it isn't the key, then look at the wippen flange. I know it will be a big 
>hassle, but remove the action, and?repin the wippen flange. Don't just add a little 
>lubricant, and make the wippen move up and down. These things have a tendency 
>to work fine outside the piano, and even work with the key disengaged. But for 
>some reason, it is the pining that creates the sluggish key. Unfortunately, if this 
>means taking off?the rubber grommets at the ends of the keys, which might be 
>hard, and will break, you're going to have to tell the customer what's involved to 
>solve the sluggish key, and they might opt to put up with the sluggish key. 

>Good luck


>Wim


>-----Original Message-----
>From: Matthew Todd <toddpianoworks at att.net>
>To: pianotech at ptg.org
>Sent: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 10:30 am
>Subject: Re: [pianotech] sluggish (was no subject)








>I went back to the clients home this afternoon top diagnose the sluggish key.? Sure 
>enough, it is a key weight issue.? I eliminated all other possible issues (such as key 
>bushings, flanges, etc).

>?

>Now, what is the proper procedure to correct this problem?



>TODD PIANO WORKS 
>Matthew Todd, Piano Technician 
>(979) 248-9578

>http://www.toddpianoworks.com


>--- On Fri, 6/5/09, Keith McGavern <kam544 at allegiance.tv> wrote:


>From: Keith McGavern <kam544 at allegiance.tv>
>Subject: Re: [pianotech] sluggish (was no subject)
>To: pianotech at ptg.org
>Date: Friday, June 5, 2009, 11:59 PM



>On Jun 5, 2009, at 6:30 PM, Matthew Todd wrote:

>>? I then held the key and moved the backcheck, and it returned fine.

>Matthew,

>I assume in this test you were attempting to eliminate the wippen flange as being 
>the cause of the sluggishness.
>You may have done this and didn't say it in your post, but you also need to 
>disconnect the bridle strap and hold the hammer assembly towards the strings as 
>well as holding the key to feel sluggishness in the wippen flange when you lift it 
>somewhat up and down.

>Aside from this test, most likely you have a key weight problem, especially if you do 
>determine the flange centers and the key bushings are basically free. It is not an 
>uncommon situation in some Wurlitzer vertical pianos. Also, nested bushings are 
>very possible as the angle of the keyarm can be quite severe in some of these 
>pianos in the treble section.

>Sincerely,

>Keith