One of the first dealerships I worked for back in 78, told me C. O.D. meant cash on the barrel head, to this day I still don' have any idea of what he he was saying although I can say it was one of his more magnanimous statements.What a despot! Robert E. Wall robertemmett.w at gmail.com On Thu, Jun 18, 2009 at 10:27 PM, <pianotech-request at ptg.org> wrote: > Send pianotech mailing list submissions to > pianotech at ptg.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://ptg.org/mailman/listinfo/pianotech > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pianotech-request at ptg.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pianotech-owner at ptg.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pianotech digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Cash!! (David Ilvedson) > 2. Steinway Style 2 (Clark Sprague) > 3. Re: Calling all Chemists (Greg Newell) > 4. reamer for damper lever top flange (J Patrick Draine) > 5. Re: Steinway Style 2 (David Ilvedson) > 6. Re: reamer for damper lever top flange (Ron Nossaman) > 7. Re: Dealer labor fees (David Love) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 19:15:35 -0700 > From: "David Ilvedson" <ilvey at sbcglobal.net> > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Cash!! > Message-ID: <0015E6EF0612130F232F004008 at David> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" > > got to read the fine print..."balance due" > > David Ilvedson, RPT > Pacifica, CA 94044 > > ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- > From: "Ryan Sowers" <tunerryan at gmail.com> > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Received: 6/18/2009 7:13:20 PM > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Cash!! > > > >I don't get it. What did you do to justify the $2300? > > >On Thu, Jun 18, 2009 at 1:43 PM, Richard <richard.ucci at att.net> wrote: > > >> Just picked up balance due on an old kimball grand my dealer just > >> delivered. > >> > >> Keys came up off the keypins during transit and the dealer called me in > a > >> panic . Fixed the keys and got $2300 in cash... > >> Drinks are on me dudes. > >> > >> Sent from my iPhone > >> > > > > >-- > >Ryan Sowers, RPT > >Puget Sound Chapter > >Olympia, WA > >www.pianova.net > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 21:37:30 -0400 > From: "Clark Sprague" <CSPRAGUE4 at woh.rr.com> > To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> > Subject: [pianotech] Steinway Style 2 > Message-ID: <38CD67C328E446B59D663425D0F1FFA6 at Shiny> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > List, I went to the house of a man yesterday, who has a Steinway Style > 2, 7'3" grand for sale. It needs completely rebuilt. Pictures are > available, if desired. > The serial number is #33450. Funny thing is, that someone has changed > the number in the places that one would know to look (the keyslip, the > front > of the action frame, they put it on the open faced pinblock, and on the > stretcher board above the bass strings, upside down no less), but they > didn't change the numbers on the inside of the cheek blocks, or on the > underside of the fallboard. What they did was add a 1 to the other > numbers, > making it look like it is a 1908, when in reality, it is an 1876. He > called > it a Centennial Edition (I really don't know about that, but I could > envision a very beautiful instrument if re-done well). As I said, I have > some pictures available, if anyone wants to see them. > Anybody interested in a project? > > Clark A. Sprague, RPT > csprague4 at woh.rr.com > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 22:46:48 -0400 > From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell at ameritech.net> > To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Calling all Chemists > Message-ID: <021d01c9f088$315bd450$94137cf0$@net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > John, > This is interesting, and cheap which I particularly like at this > point. I'll look into this as well as the other offerings. Thanks! > > Greg Newell > Greg's Piano Fort? > www.gregspianoforte.com > 216-226-3791 (office) > 216-470-8634 (mobile) > > > -----Original Message----- > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On > Behalf Of johndelmore at suddenlink.net > Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 7:21 PM > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Calling all Chemists > > I generally use 6N hydrochloric acid in the lab. If you don't have a > source for that, there's a product called "The Works"...it's a toilet bowl > cleaner (accept no substitute...obviously, not any old bowl cleaner will > 'work'...), buck and a quarter at Wally-World. I've used it with good > results before, but it may need a little soak-time. If you use either of > these, rinse well and neutralize with a weak baking soda solution as soon as > the rust is dissolved. > > John > > > > > > On Jun 18, 2009, at 4:14 PM, Greg Newell wrote: > > > > > I wonder if any of you might know of a rust neutralizer product. I > > > have a > > > bunch of scaffolding that I bought and used for hoisting a piano (A > > > related > > > post don?t you know) that has a great deal of surface rust on it. > > > I?d like > > > to clean off the rust and paint the scaffolding so that it holds up > > > better > > > over the long term. Any suggestions? > > > > > > > > > > > > Greg Newell > > > Greg's Piano Fort? > > > www.gregspianoforte.com > > > 216-226-3791 (office) > > > 216-470-8634 (mobile) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:10:29 -0400 > From: J Patrick Draine <jpdraine at gmail.com> > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: [pianotech] reamer for damper lever top flange > Message-ID: > <fdf610640906181710g57fc3a99o762290b283c74502 at mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Hi, I seem to have misplaced the drill bit I use to ream the damper lever > top flange (that's what they call it in the S&S diagram) so the damper > wires > are minimally loose (i.e. not freakin' tight as they are now, which makes > regulating the dampers a major headache). And I seem to have misplaced the > nifty handout from Karen Robinson's comprehensive damper class.So what size > drill bit is appropriate for me to use for this 1922 S&S O, oh damper > gurus? > Patrick > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20090618/dc587c53/attachment-0001.htm > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:13:52 -0700 > From: "David Ilvedson" <ilvey at sbcglobal.net> > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Steinway Style 2 > Message-ID: <004B41230612140D341000500A at David> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" > > Oh, yeah...let's see the evidence... '-] > > David Ilvedson, RPT > Pacifica, CA 94044 > > ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- > From: "Clark Sprague" <CSPRAGUE4 at woh.rr.com> > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Received: 6/18/2009 6:37:30 PM > Subject: [pianotech] Steinway Style 2 > > > > List, I went to the house of a man yesterday, who has a Steinway Style > >2, 7'3" grand for sale. It needs completely rebuilt. Pictures are > >available, if desired. > > The serial number is #33450. Funny thing is, that someone has changed > >the number in the places that one would know to look (the keyslip, the > front > >of the action frame, they put it on the open faced pinblock, and on the > >stretcher board above the bass strings, upside down no less), but they > >didn't change the numbers on the inside of the cheek blocks, or on the > >underside of the fallboard. What they did was add a 1 to the other > numbers, > >making it look like it is a 1908, when in reality, it is an 1876. He > called > >it a Centennial Edition (I really don't know about that, but I could > >envision a very beautiful instrument if re-done well). As I said, I have > >some pictures available, if anyone wants to see them. > > Anybody interested in a project? > > >Clark A. Sprague, RPT > >csprague4 at woh.rr.com > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 22:27:36 -0500 > From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: Re: [pianotech] reamer for damper lever top flange > Message-ID: <4A3B05A8.1050605 at cox.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > J Patrick Draine wrote: > > Hi, I seem to have misplaced the drill bit I use to ream the damper > > lever top flange (that's what they call it in the S&S diagram) so the > > damper wires are minimally loose (i.e. not freakin' tight as they are > > now, which makes regulating the dampers a major headache). And I seem to > > have misplaced the nifty handout from Karen Robinson's comprehensive > > damper class. > > So what size drill bit is appropriate for me to use for this 1922 S&S O, > > oh damper gurus? > > Patrick > > Would we, perhaps, mic the wire and chose a bit size nominally > larger to > open the channel? > > In the admittedly self interest of avoiding the dreaded > committee consensus kiss of death, that's where I would (and > do) go. > > Opinions, and instincts, vary. > Ron N > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:27:00 -0700 > From: "David Love" <davidlovepianos at comcast.net> > To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Dealer labor fees > Message-ID: <01cb01c9f08d$ced32990$6c797cb0$@net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > The issue of "perfect" wasn't really the point. Putting in half the normal > time on an appointment and, presumably, compromising the quality of the > work > you typically do in order to help the dealer "make money" doesn't serve > your > own self interest very well. Since reputation is everything in this > business and even one dissatisfied customer can do significant damage to > your reputation and thereby your business, if you are going to take > significantly less money from the dealer (unless it's an anonymous floor > tuning, I suppose) you should do the same quality work as you typically do. > If you don't feel comfortable with that (and I don't) then don't accept the > work at drastically reduced prices. It may serve you imperfectly in the > long run. > > > > David Love > > www.davidlovepianos.com > > > > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On > Behalf > Of Ryan Sowers > Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 7:11 PM > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Dealer labor fees > > > > In piano work there is no such thing as "perfect". There are degrees of > perfection that are appropriate for various situations. > > The trick with dealers is to develop trust. If the piano needs extra work > the dealer trusts that I will take care of the problem quickly and > efficiently and and charge them a reasonable rate. As long as you have a > good relationship with them and communicate I haven't had any real > problems. > > > Of course, not all dealers are equal - just like all technicians are not > equal. I have refused to work for certain dealers. Fortunately I am lucky > to > work with some terrific stores and are able to enjoy a win-win > relationship. > > > On Thu, Jun 18, 2009 at 12:37 PM, David Love <davidlovepianos at comcast.net> > wrote: > > Remember, however, that less than perfect work that you do reflects on you > with the customer, not the dealer. I will routinely discount to the trade > 10 - 15%, not more. But never quote a price beforehand. That simple > tuning > has a way of becoming an semi-tone pitch raise. I don't like walking away > from a situation feeling a conflict between doing my best work and getting > paid a reasonable amount. > > > > David Love > > www.davidlovepianos.com > > > > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On > Behalf > Of Ryan Sowers > Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 11:15 AM > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Dealer labor fees > > > > Part of the trick of dealing with dealers is to know how to work quickly > and > efficiently. I generally give dealers a 25% discount on my hourly rate, but > compared to a retail tuning it comes out more like a 50% discount. > > My retail appointments take 1.5 to 2 hours whereas my dealer tunings > usually > take an hour. > > Most dealers don't expect perfect work. They are hiring you to help them > make money. If you can help them make money they will love you. > > On Thu, Jun 18, 2009 at 7:03 AM, Richard <richard.ucci at att.net> wrote: > > What is % off reg. fees normally for dealer work ? > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > -- > Ryan Sowers, RPT > Puget Sound Chapter > Olympia, WA > www.pianova.net > > > > > -- > Ryan Sowers, RPT > Puget Sound Chapter > Olympia, WA > www.pianova.net > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20090618/5b8fa04e/attachment.htm > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech mailing list > pianotech at ptg.org > http://ptg.org/mailman/listinfo/pianotech > > > End of pianotech Digest, Vol 8, Issue 186 > ***************************************** > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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