This method really is brilliant! Since you leave the flanges attached to the rail, the hammers end up being (almost) perfectly spaced to the strings so you can even get away without reshaping the hammers. 4 hours was about right for the first time. On Sun, Mar 22, 2009 at 4:01 PM, David Ilvedson <ilvey at sbcglobal.net> wrote: > Archives has a lot on this... > > > Here are instructions. I got them from Tom Cole, RPT. He can do it = > in around 2 hours, give or take. I'm sure his shop area is far more = > efficiently organized than what I was using at the time. The first time = > took me around 4, second time was about 3 hours. I see another one on = > the horizon soon! > > Dave Stahl > > > Problem: > Hammer return spring cords are breaking due to unknown cause > Symptoms: > Cords have become a brownish color > Random breakage is occuring > Touchweight is affected on some notes; hammer sometimes falls into = > strings on slow release > Solutions: > Replace hammer flanges > Replace cords > Condition of action: > If condition of the hammers, pinning, and travelling/mating to strings = > all good, replace cords. > If pinning is poor then flange replacement may be a better option. > Cord Replacement Procedure: > 1. Place action in action cradle > 2. Remove hammer rest rail and treble bracket > 3. Loosen hammer butt plate screws > 4. Remove hammer assemblies from flanges and let hang from bridle = > wires > 5. Straighten any bent return springs > 6. Tighten all hammer/damper/wippen flange screws > 7. Tilt action 90=B0 so that the hammer flange cord slots face up > 8. Using specially adapted shimming chisel, clean slots and vacuum up = > debris > 9. Wrap 90+ turns on dowel with new cord and cut turns with razor > 10. Glue one end of each piece to one slot on each flange > 11. Return to the first flange and trim each cord to length > 12. Glue other end to remaining slot; check with gauge > 13. Replace hammers; tighten butt plate screws; hook springs under = > flange cords as you go > 14. Replace hammer rest rail bracket and reinstall rest rail > 15. Final check; jack springs engaged with jacks, spring cords in hook = > of hammer return springs, bridal tapes not twisted > Tools and Materials: > =AE flange screwdriver > =AE thin screwdriver > =AE Phillips screwdriver > =AE shimming chisel modified to clean flange slots > =AE glue applicator (syringe) filled with Tightbond > =AE end nippers with gauge > =AE action cradle > =AE replacement cord (braided Dacron of suitable diameter) > =AE 5/8" dowel [9/16"] > =AE blunted scriber > =AE gauge (dowel) > =AE razor > =AE forceps > =AE damp rag > > > David Ilvedson, RPT > Pacifica, CA 94044 > ------------------------------ > Original message > From: KeyKat88 at aol.com > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Received: 3/22/2009 4:43:54 AM > Subject: [pianotech] U3 hammer flange string / fiber > > Greetings, > > Is it possible to replace/glue the hammer flange spring thread using > new (non-breakable) nylon thread instead of the thin (tear-able) fiber > thread they originally used? Is replacing these a tough job? Thoughts? > > Thank You, > Julia Gottshall > Reading, PA > > > ------------------------------ > Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less<http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001> > . > -- Ryan Sowers, RPT Puget Sound Chapter Olympia, WA www.pianova.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech_ptg.org/attachments/20090322/9dbbf55a/attachment.html>
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC