Likewise this may be old news/non-news... but I regularly do the following: When removing wood-screwed-on case parts which need to be removed for each tuning, I find that the threads are not necessarily stripped yet, but they are loose and would probably strip if I tried to torque the screws down more than necessary. I just dribble a few drops of thin CA in the hole(s) when I remove the case part, go on to tune the piano, then it's nice 'n tight when I'm ready to put it all back together. I will have to try Rob's method next time I would ordinarily be using toothpicks, however... Thanks! Paul Bruesch Stillwater, MN On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 2:48 PM, Rob Goodale <rrg at unlv.nevada.edu> wrote: > Hello all, > > I thought I'd take a minute to tell you about a fabulous way to fix > stripped screws. Perhaps this secret is already out and about but it was > new to me so if there is anyone looking for a great solution, this Bud's for > you. I can't take credit for this one, a colleague told me about it. > > You do not have to drill the hole out. Stuff the hole well with absorbent > paper, (i.e. paper towel). Next soak the paper with the super thin CA glue. > It absolutely MUST dry 100%. Use accelerator to speed the process up, but > even after that wait at least a few minutes to make certain. The hole is > now ready to use. Insert the screw and you will be amazed to see that it > has the same feel as wood. It will snug down tight like it did originally > and won't strip out. In fact if you over tighten it there is a chance you > will break the screw head off before it will strip again, you might actually > need to drill a pilot hole depending on the situation. This is a GREAT and > reliable repair and takes little effort. > > The key to all this is that the CA must be totally dry and you must use the > super thin. It is not only necessary to make the repair successful and > restore the genuine wood-like qualities, but if you put the screw in before > it's dry it will never come out again! Without question it will break the > head off before it will turn and it will have to be drilled and dug out. > > Try this first in a piece of scrap wood, (maple, mahogany, etc - typical > piano woods). Then the next time you come across that stripped lid hinge > screw you can amaze your customers! It's a much better repair then stuffing > the hole with tooth picks. I have to admit I was very reluctant to try this > and highly skeptical that it would work but my doubts and apprehension have > vaporized. > > Rob Goodale, RPT > Las Vegas, NV > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech_ptg.org/attachments/20090324/5a659560/attachment.html>
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