[pianotech] Fixing stripped screws

Gerald Groot tunerboy3 at comcast.net
Sat Mar 28 08:34:15 PDT 2009


I know what the Vodka is REALLY for....   :-)  

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Ryan Sowers
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2009 11:11 AM
To: David Ilvedson; pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Fixing stripped screws

 

I don't think you can tell what's going to happen with any chemical
treatment. Protek seem to work great on some actions; others it doesn't free
up the parts enough or its fairly temporary. I've been typically using 50/50
water to denatured alcohol. Its true that it initially seizes up the action
and it takes a few hours to dry out. It too have had problems with the
centers getting too loose when trying to dry them faster with a heat gun. 

Darrel Fandrich recommended his new treatment for Verdigris at the
California State Conference in Burbank. He's using Ballistol followed by a
heat gun. It will smoke so do it outside. (Darrel says he likes the smell)
I tried it on an old Mason where every single flange in the action was
sluggish (hammers, wippens, jacks and rep levers!) and protek wasn't doing
the trick. On an action that needs to be rebuilt anyways I figure there's
not much to lose. Kinda like doping a pinblock. The piano went from being
unplayable to playing amazingly well! It will be interesting to see how long
it lasts. 

On Fri, Mar 27, 2009 at 7:40 PM, David Ilvedson <ilvey at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

I rarely use alcohol/water because I have no idea what is going to happen.
Now, maybe, you can enlighten me on the perfect alcohol/water
solution...heat?   I've got cheap vodka in my car in case Protek/Goose Juice
doesn't free up the action.   The problem for me is often the action will
seize up and need some time to dry (read...overnight...not
practical)...light heat from a hair dryer can speed things up but too many
times I've had loose centers...most of the time Protek/Goose frees up the
action.   Vertegri will usually need treatment at every service until new
parts.    

 

David Ilvedson, RPT
Pacifica, CA 94044

  _____  

Original message
From: "Michael Magness"  
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Received: 3/27/2009 10:42:05 AM


Subject: Re: [pianotech] Fixing stripped screws

 

On Fri, Mar 27, 2009 at 11:34 AM, Ryan Sowers <tunerryan at gmail.com> wrote:

The problem with toothpick and similar repairs is that it doesn't distribute
the material evenly around the stripped hole. I thought the paper towel idea
sounded promising and I too will try it. It would seem that if you make a
small tube of the paper and insert it into the hole it will already have a
"pilot" hole. 

I too have used leather successfully and it does make me feel like more of a
craftsman for some reason. Maybe its just because its a good "old school"
repair. I also tend to lean towards less toxic repairs. So I prefer to use
Ballistol or Alcohol/water over Protek (But I still find myself still using
it) for freeing up action centers, and aliphatic resin glue over CA glue. 

I've often thought that there is a good analogy between drugs and certain
chemicals used by piano technicians. They are quick fixes and are highly
addictive, but may not have have long term benefit. We may find that all the
actions Proteked (a new verb!) in the 90's will start seizing up in the next
decade. We don't really know the long term affect of these modern products.


 


 

-- 
Ryan Sowers, RPT
Puget Sound Chapter
Olympia, WA
www.pianova.net <http://www.pianova.net/> 



Hi Ryan,

 

I believe you and I are on the same track. I don't eschew new things for the
fact that they are new as  much as I question their long term efficacy over
the tried and true. Like you I prefer alcohol and water over Protek and
Titebond over CA when there is a choice to be made. Of course there are
times when Protek or CA are the preferred but I've had the same bottle of
Protek for at least 4 years now and it's still over 1/2 full. The only CA I
carry is Loctite Gel in a control bottle that allows me to squeeze out one
drop at a time. It costs 2.79 at Walmart and I may use 1 or 2 bottles (.14
oz) a year. It's useful for gluing the Kawai Styran, sets faster than PVC-E.


I just spent about an hour a few weeks ago re-gluing several hammers in
Yamaha's & Kawai's in a high school that had obviously been CA'd by someone
previously but were loose again. I removed them, cleaned off the old glue
and reglued them properly with Titebond as I always have. CA may work OK in
a home setting for a loose hammer but in a school where it's being used 5 or
6 hours a day it doesn't hold up, CA doesn't flex like Titebond will.

 

Mike
-- 
I intend to live forever. So far, so good.. 
Steven Wright 


Michael Magness
Magness Piano Service
608-786-4404
www.IFixPianos.com <http://www.ifixpianos.com/> 
email mike at ifixpianos.com




-- 
Ryan Sowers, RPT
Puget Sound Chapter
Olympia, WA
www.pianova.net



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