[pianotech] Removing a Steinway Pinblock

[William Truitt]

Hi Al:

 

After I have drilled out the dowels and separated the pinblock from the
stretcher, I use my pinblock support to start removing the pinblock at the
ends.  I drill out the dowels going into the shelf, then start turning the
bolts up.  Once they are real snug and pressing up and against the bottom of
the pinblock, I take my rubber mallet and strike down hard on the top of the
pinblock in the middle.  A few wacks, jack it some, more, a few wacks, jack
it some more, put some alcohol into any cracks that develop at the joints,
wack,wack, wack, etc.   Sometimes the whole thing will pop loose at one end
all of a sudden.  Other times, it creeps up increment by increment, as I
jack and wack.  Then move to the other end of the block and repeat as
necessary.  This way I can take the block out as one piece.   

 

I should make a video of the process and send it to the owner of the piano.
Laughing maniacally, of course, as I go wailing down on the pinblock of Old
Aunt Tillie's STEIN-way.

 

Will Truitt

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Al Guecia/AlliedPianoCraft
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 9:02 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Removing a Steinway Pinblock

 

Thanks to all who have replied.

 

Since I have used the circular saw and the reciprocating saw, I think I
would like to try something new. The alcohol method described by John D and
William M seems to be what I am looking for. (John, I like the jack idea).
The block comes out clean, I'll have a good template and no new tools to
buy. If I have a problem, I can always use my recip saw. Has worked for
years. Just looking for an easier way to try.

 

 

Al

 

 

 

From: William <mailto:bill at a440piano.net>  Monroe 

Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 7:10 PM

To: pianotech at ptg.org 

Subject: Re: [pianotech] Removing a Steinway Pinblock

 

I should add that if you use alcohol and water, I found that it was best to
have something else to do.  Apply and re-apply and let it work for some time
to get things started.  When it works well, it comes off clean, leaving just
glue residue.  My last one (see the previous photos) came out clean other
than the cracked section which had to be cut.  All in all, Alcohol/Water
seems like the most elegant solution to me, though, with my methods, the
recip saw seems to be fastest in the end.  One other nice advantage of
Alcohol/Water is that you have a pretty fine template if it comes out clean.
;-]

William R. Monroe



On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 6:05 PM, William Monroe <bill at a440piano.net> wrote:

Hi Al,

To address a couple things folks haven't responded to yet:

Yes, the block is (at least usually) doweled into the front stretcher (case
cornice in S&S lingo).  If memory serves, it's five dowels, the end ones are
about 2.5" - 3" in from the case sides, one in the middle of the case
cornice, and two more, evenly spaced between the middle and ends.  So if you
use Alcohol and water, you'll have to slip in a thin saw to cut the dowels.
I've used a backed block placed on the stretcher and struck with a mallet,
as well as a chisel occasionally to help start/continue a separation.  One
drawback to the Alcohol/Water solution I found happened on a recent project
where there was a crack in the stretcher that allowed the solution to reach
the face veneer.  Made a little mess with the veneer coming off, but it was
repairable.  It did (mostly work), though it was a lot of time/banging, and
I still had to clean things up later with a hand plane.

I've also used the DeWalt 304PK.  You are correct in that there is still a
bit of clean up as the saw leaves a good 1/2" of material.  It's flush
cutting if you're doing rough construction.  It's not remotely flush for
piano work.  ;-]      That said, if you like using a recip saw, this is the
one I'd recommend.  Very easy to get a nice straight cut without danger of
damaging any finish.  Clean up with an electric hand plane (fastest and
pretty safe) or hand plane.

Enjoy the process.

William R. Monroe 





On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 4:08 PM, Al Guecia/AlliedPianoCraft
<AlliedPianoCraft at hotmail.com> wrote:

Dear List,

 

I know this has been discussed before, but I'm about to replace another
Steinway pinblock and would like to find the most efficient and easiest way
to proceed. I remember using a hand held circular saw on my first pinblock
(35 years ago, very young and foolish, very scary, much too dangerous and
too much hand work). I am now using a reciprocating saw (still too much hand
work). 

 

I know of three methods that I have not tried and one wild and crazy
thought.

 

1) The DeWalt DW304PK. Looks like this saw will be able to cut pretty close
to the stretcher with not too much hand work afterwards. I think this would
be much better that the recip I've been using.

 

2) The alcohol and water method. I don't know how time consuming this method
is, but it seems to me, there wouldn't be too much handwork involved.

 

3) The Bolduc router method, (that looks pretty scary to me also), and also
requires quite a bit of handwork.

 

4) And now a wild and crazy thought. I have an small, electric, chain saw. I
was thinking about making up a jig to hold the saw and ride the stretcher. I
just want to through this one out there to see if anyone has tried it or
thought about it. I think this will still require a bit, but not too much
hand cleanup afterwards.

 

All suggestions to make this job easier with less grunt work will be greatly
appreciated.

 

Al

 

 

 

 

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