[pianotech] PIn Block Question

[tnrwim at aol.com]

Chip

The direct answer to your questions is to get a double panel of the 1.5" thick pin block, because you'll have to put two layers together and rout them down to 2 3/4". 

Having said that, although practicing pin block replacement on an upright piano is good, why would you want to? In my 33 years, I've never done one. I've seen it done, but only on rare occasions, and then, only on a very good quality upright. 99% of the time, the cost of doing a pin block job on an upright just doesn't justify the results. 

If you want to experiment with pin block replacement, try a cheap grand. 

But that's just my opinion. 

Wim






-----Original Message-----
From: chip tuthill <chiptuthill at yahoo.com>
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Sent: Mon, Apr 12, 2010 5:24 am
Subject: [pianotech] PIn Block Question



Hi,


I am ready to try a pin block replacement on a ~1930's  Haddorf (Krakauer) 48" upright. The existing pinblock has three different  pin lengths- 2.25", 2.5" & 3".  2/0 & 4/0 diameters as well as some metal pin bushings. The block is 3/4" 3 ply maple plywood overlaying a solid piece of 2" thick maple. I can pull some of the pins out with my fingers!


The plan: rout the existing block to receive a new laminated maple pin block. Schaff lists three different thicknesses- 1.25, 1.375, and 1.5 inches. What thickness would be best? 


I was given this piano. I am using it for practice repairs. The bass bridge needs recapping as the pins there also come out by hand. It is a solid piece of maple complete with many cracks. Soundboard has no cracks, but could use refinishing. I'll restring it and then work on the action. I hope to be ready for the vertical regulation and repair section the the RPT exam when I finish this <G>!


Thanks,


Chip Tuthill
Associate member PTG
Tuthill's Piano Service







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