Baldwin's plate suspension bolts were threaded to the hilt of necessity, since it was threaded into the plate as well as the rim. In this case, it is not necessary since the thread do not engage in the plate, but in the lower bolt beneath the plate. I don't know where we buy them, but the Hailun 218 (7') grand uses an identical plate suspension bolt. It is so identical that I suspect they are from WNG. We had a problem with an over-zealous tech over-tightening the top bolt and breaking the head off. We addressed the problem by having the vendor make the top bolt of a harder steel (brass plated), and increasing the shank diameter slightly, just above where the threads begin. Try using a washer under the top bolt, thick enough to take up the slack. It's not a bad idea to use a washer for other reasons. It's better than having the top bolt break off! You can imagine the difficult of repairing that? Frank Emerson ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Love" <davidlovepianos at comcast.net> To: <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 11:12 PM Subject: Re: [pianotech] WNG plate bolts > Since those bolts often get driven to the hilt it requires that you open > up the top of the hole to accommodate the wider top of the bolt. I'd > prefer to not have to do that. > ------Original Message------ > From: Ron Nossaman > Sender: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org > To: pianotech at ptg.org > ReplyTo: pianotech at ptg.org > Subject: Re: [pianotech] WNG plate bolts > Sent: Jul 27, 2010 8:09 PM > > David Love wrote: >> Why don't they cut the threads all the way to the top? > > There needs to be a body wide enough for the top bolt to > thread into, and the hex drive. Why would lag threads be > necessary, or even beneficial there? > Ron N > > > > > David Love > www.davidlovepianos.com
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