[pianotech] Underlever Spring Tension Measurement

Joe DeFazio defaziomusic at verizon.net
Tue Jul 27 23:14:59 MDT 2010


> From: Mike Spalding <mike.spalding1 at verizon.net>
> Date: July 27, 2010 9:52:38 PM EDT
> 
> Joe,
> 
> The off-cut from a backaction installed a couple years ago fell apart in my hands - no glue in the joint.  That job had already been delivered, and has had no problems, and I am assuming that it was a small localized glue starvation problem.  But I had two more in process, which I reinforced with 1/8 dowels and epoxy.  Now I use a kit from a different manufacturer.
> 
> Mike

Thanks, Mike.  I'll be reinforcing this one, probably with dowels as well.  I should probably mention for folks who haven't used the Renner kit that the end blocks do provide good support for the joint, especially if glued/screwed to both members.  So, the sky is not falling.  Other than the tray tongue and groove joint, the Renner kit is well engineered and manufactured (even though it leaves intact the less-than-ideal S&S geometry).

Now you got me curious as to which back action you switched to (if you care to say, of course).  Tokiwa?  I saw the new WNG back action at Randy Mangus' shop a few weeks ago;  it's really slick (literally as well as figuratively), and offers spoon and capstan-style adjustments for the key end lift and the tray lift.  It also has a single pivot point (tray pivot and underlever centerpins are colinear).  It seemed maybe a little harder to install, since you're necessarily changing the back action geometry somewhat (as compared to an old S&S back action), but much easier to regulate.  Oh, and the springs can be regulated via a screw (like some rep levers), if I recall;  I think they even provided a small tool for use in making the spring tension adjustments.  Maybe Randy will chime in with some more details.  Hats off to WNG for rethinking things and attempting many improvements.

Joe DeFazio
Pittsburgh
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