Hi Dean, Sure. I was taught and greatly assisted by Dale Fox. I do not think that I can describe the procedure accurate enough and I likely will leave out some details but some things that are important are: Register plate to case and bridge and record height. Plan on refinishing the plate. Investigate how the existing hitch pins are in the plate – straight up and down or at an angle. If they are straight up and down you may be able to use these holes and avoid drilling more holes. Be certain that the hitch pin area of the plate is massive enough for more holes. Strings off but leave under-string felt in place for help with alignment. Bridge pins out. Is the alignment of the existing bridge notches in relation to tuning pin holes and hitch pins good – correct any spacing issues. The pins for vertical are 7/32 rolled steel and will be wider than existing hitches so keep in mind when spacing. I have used vice grips to break off the hitches and then a grinder to make everything flat but grinding them completely may be a bit less risky – you don’t want to chip the plate - grind smooth. Use a string to align and locate new pin holes and mark with punch. Put the plate on saw horses and use a radial drill press to drill the holes. Make the effort to level the drill with the plate so holes are straight up and down and consistent. Dale mounted his press on a big flat solid wood door if you can visualize that and made an air pad glide base to make it easier to move the drill press. If the existing hitch pins are in at an angle but located to your liking you may consider a punch mark on the rear edge so that the drill will bisect the hitch pin that remains in the hole and the plate about 50/50. But the strength of the plate is important and it pays to take time to consider the situation. On my Knabe and the different Steinway’s that I converted, the spacing and alignment of hitches and bridge notches to the tuning pin holes needed help – especially in the lower part of the long bridge. Don’t assume the existing hitches are located correct. If you are not replacing the bridge or bridge cap then it will be different and I have not done that one yet. Tap new pins in and have about ½ inch in and above the plate. Keep the slot in the rolled pin to the rear and aligned with the string plane. The photo shows my Knabe. The holes are drilled. I ground off the cast aliquot and used epoxy to help create a smooth surface. Gene _____ From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Dean May Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 5:44 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Stwy A (6' 1") speaking lengths Hi Gene Can you post any pictures or explain your protocol for retrofitting vertical hitch pins without a complete rebuild? Many thanks, Dean Dean W May (812) 235-5272 voice and text PianoRebuilders.com (888) DEAN-MAY Terre Haute IN 47802 _____ From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Gene Nelson Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 5:09 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Stwy A (6' 1") speaking lengths Will, No I did not use vertical hitches. The client did not want to alter the traditional look of the piano but I have done this on others and always will suggest that it should be done to future clients. Gene _____ From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Encore Pianos Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 12:01 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Stwy A (6' 1") speaking lengths And another question would be, did you use a vertical hitch pin, which would elevate the string off the plate and move the effective termination of the waste length back another 10 to 20 mm? Will Truitt From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Alan Eder Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 2:05 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Stwy A (6' 1") speaking lengths Gene, I thought increasing back scale lengths might be the reason why, but have learned the hard way not to assume anything. So, was the difference in lengths gained solely through the elimination of the cantilever, or was the base of the bridge also moved? And I take it that there is a noticeable change, and you like it? Thanks, Alan Eder -----Original Message----- From: Gene Nelson <nelsong at intune88.com> To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Fri, Mar 18, 2011 6:42 am Subject: Re: [pianotech] Stwy A (6' 1") speaking lengths Del Fandrich has taught about improved tone with longer back scale length in the lo-bass and I believe him. His portable device demonstrates this for all to hear. If you get a chance to take this class you should. The lo-bass on this piano especially had short back scale and the extra 16mm helped get the back scale length closer to 80 or 90mm on the lowest few notes – excluding the tied part of the wire - cannot recall exact lengths. I would have shortened the lo-bass speaking lengths more but was restricted by the plate casting. The original bridge and its cantilever was also replaced with a new bridge and no cantilever. Gene _____ From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org <mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org?> ] On Behalf Of Alan Eder Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 8:37 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Stwy A (6' 1") speaking lengths Thanks for the info, Gene. Looks like you put the long bridge back in the same relative position to the plate, but shortened up the speaking lengths in the bass by 12 to 16 mm. I would be very interested in knowing what led you to make this change? Thanks again, Alan Eder -----Original Message----- From: Gene Nelson <nelsong at intune88.com> To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Thu, Mar 17, 2011 1:08 pm Subject: Re: [pianotech] Stwy A (6' 1") speaking lengths 1909 A original #1=1415mm #20=1078 #21=1207 #88=51 Rescaled – new board, strings, bass bridge and bridge capps, block etc. #1=1399 #20=1066 #21=1207 #88=51 _____ >Does anyone have information about speaking lengths (particularly >notes nos. 1, 20, 21 and 88) for Steinway model A, 6' 1" (1913). > This could be information either from Steinway itself, or from >observation, or even your own notion of what might work best. The >project in question does not involve adding a transition bridge or >rescaling, but comparing the original condition of a piano getting a >new board and bridge caps with other iterations of the same model. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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