[pianotech] Beefing up spring rails for better touch uniformity.

[Paul Milesi]

Joe et al.,

Many thanks for all the helpful info; very much appreciated.  Sorry to make
everybody run down this path again, but this hasn't been discussed since
I've been a list member, and I can never seem to remember how to search the
old archives (always write it down someplace, and then can't find it when I
need it!).

My estimate of charges for 5 hours included 45 minutes travel each way, and
what I thought it would take to be worth it to me.  Seems I wasn't that far
off, maybe 4 hours would do it.

Paul Milesi RPT
Washington DC
(202) 246-3136 Cell/Text
paul at pmpiano.com
http://www.pmpiano.com

From:  Joseph Garrett <joegarrett at earthlink.net>
Reply-To:  Joseph Garrett <joegarrett at earthlink.net>, PTG Pianotech List
<pianotech at ptg.org>
Date:  Saturday, May 12, 2012 11:30 AM
To:  Euphonious Thumpe <lclgcnp at yahoo.com>, PTG Pianotech List
<pianotech at ptg.org>
Subject:  Re: [pianotech] Beefing up spring rails for better touch
uniformity.

 
 
Ah, sounds like it's a "make it work" sort  of thang.<G> Or,....whatever
will work?<G> Aluminum stock is certainly something I use a lot ot. It's
good for jigs, straightedges and repairs on all sorts of stuff. Brass is,
also, one of my favorite thangs. Since the home office/warehouse of Alaska
Copper & Brass, is in Portland, AND, one of my clients is a mucky-muck
there, I do use more than my share of brass.<G>
Joe
 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Euphonious Thumpe <mailto:lclgcnp at yahoo.com>
> To: joegarrett at earthlink.net
> Sent: 5/12/2012 8:07:27 AM
> Subject: Re: Beefing up spring rails for better touch uniformity.
> 
> Haven't done this for a while, so don't quite remember. But believe that one
> was 1/2" on each leg, the other was 1/2" on one leg, 3/4' on other. ( Choice
> depending on what would fit.
>  
> Euphonious Thumpe
> From: Joseph Garrett <joegarrett at earthlink.net>
> To: Euphonious Thumpe <lclgcnp at yahoo.com>; "pianotech at ptg.org"
> <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2012 10:51 AM
> Subject: RE: Beefing up spring rails for better touch uniformity.
> 
> Thumper,
> Your message, definately took a "left turn".<G> I don't see any mention of
> warped hammer spring rails, on this subject.<G> It is relevant tho, in a
> sideways sort of "Thumper" way..<G> Is the aluminum angle equal sided? I
> suspect that it would be a toss-up as to how long it takes to make a new rail
> and cutting/drilling/screwing an aluminum angle to an existing, albeit, warped
> hammer spring rail.<G> I'd opt for a new rail, slightly redesigned to offset
> possible "warpage". You are correct about the touch
> uniformity..er...somewhat.<G>
> That's my take on that.
> Joe
>  
>  
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Euphonious Thumpe <mailto:lclgcnp at yahoo.com>
>> To: joegarrett at earthlink.net;pianotech at ptg.org
>> Sent: 5/12/2012 6:49:48 AM
>> Subject: Beefing up spring rails for better touch uniformity.
>> 
>> We've all seen terribly warped spring rails in old uprights. I've
>> successfully straightened and strengthened several with very short-legged
>> aluminum angle (1/8" thick by 1/2 " legs, I believe ) carefully cut to fit
>> over the top of the rail, and screwed to it, with notches filed where the
>> action brackets go.
>>  
>> Euphonious Thumpe
>> From: Joseph Garrett <joegarrett at earthlink.net>
>> To: Joe Goss <imatunr at srvinet.com>; pianotech at ptg.org
>> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 9:58 PM
>> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs
>> 
>> Joe, (the other one.<G>)
>> Once I get the rail out, I don't want to ever have to do all the "dancin'
>> around" to get it back in...so, I take the rail to the wood jawed vice and
>> drill out the screw holes to ac comodate 1/4" bolts. Then I drill out the
>> brackets for tapping to 1/4"-20 threads. I remove the felt at those points.
>> I use 1/4"-20 x 1" R.H. Screws to re-install the rail. Easy/Peasy.<G> In
>> the past, there have been several manufacturers that did this, including
>> S&S. The rest just didn't get it, imo.<G> BTW, most action brackets are
>> more than  beefy enough for this modification. Also, Make Sure you have the
>> rail firmly clamped at the points of drilling out, so that it doesn't
>> split. I've only run into a couple of spring rails that were too wimpy for
>> this modification, so have at it....(gitterdun).
>> Joe
>> 
>> 
>>> > [Original Message]
>>> > From: Joe Goss <imatunr at srvinet.com>
>>> > To: <joegarrett at ea rthlink.net <mailto:joegarrett at earthlink.net> >;
>>> <pianotech at ptg.org>
>>> > Date: 5/11/2012 8:27:49 AM
>>> > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs
>>> >
>>> > Hi Joe and Paul,
>>> > Having never used an offset screwdriver to remove this rail, nor even
>> owned 
>>> > one, even for rocker arm  lost motion adjustment,
>>> > I use a 1/8" screwdriver blade to remove the screws. Sometimes but
>> seldom, 
>>> > if one is tenacious, it is necessary to remove the felt blocks.
>>> > Take care in replacing the, (I call it the whisker rail) return spring
>> rail 
>>> > so that you do not bend the springs out of shape.
>>> > Joe please describe the screw replacement that you do.
>>> > Joe Goss BSMusEd MMusEd RPT
>>> > imatunr at srvinet.com
>>> > www.mothergoosetools.com <http://www.mothergoosetools.com>
>>> > ----- Original Message -----
>>> > From: "Joseph Garrett" <joegarrett at earthlink.net>
>>> > To: "pianotech" <pianotech at ptg.org>
>>> > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 9:09 AM
>>> > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Kohler & Campbell Hammer Springs
>>> >
>>> >
>>>> > > Paul said:
>>>> > > "1980 Kohler & Campbell 41.5" Mahogany Console, good condition, except
>>>> > > that
>>>> > > several hammer springs have broken up close to the rail/coil, of course
>>>> > > causing hammers not to return. Springs do not appear rusty, but have
>> what
>>>> > > looks like verdigris at the coil. Might this have caused spring
>> weakness?
>> &g t; > Not sure why they are breaking. Piano is very clean, rust- and
>> mold-free,
>>>> > > etc. Excellent, even tuning pin torque throughout. Anyone know anything
>>>> > > about this era of K&C consoles regarding hammer spring weakness? They
do
>>>> > > not seem like very strong springs, very thin wire.
>>>> > >
>>>> > > Also would like to know if the spring rail will remove easily without
>>>> > > taking
>>>> > > other parts off the brackets?this will be my first time doing this job
>> if
>>>> > > they opt for it.
>>>> > >
>>>> > > They have already mentioned, even without a quote yet, that they
>>>> thought
>>>> > > this would be a rather expensive job considering they only paid $300
>> for 
>>>> > > the
>>>> > > piano. I'm thinking I'd have to bill 5 hours total for this work.
>> Thoughts
>>>> > > about whether it is worth doing this job on this piano? Everything else
>>>> > > looks in "good" condition."
>> &g t; >
>>>> > > Thanks.
>>>> > >
>>>> > > Paul,
>>>> > > This has been covered many times before. The cause of the spring
>> failure 
>>>> > > is
>>>> > > the chemicals in the felt on the rail, that is touching the springs.
>> It's 
>>>> > > a
>>>> > > 4 hour job...max! I can do it in 2! AND, I would convert the rail
>>>> > > attachment system, as well. You will need an off-set screwdriver,
>> (ratchet
>>>> > > types are best), to remove the rail, initially. The quality of that
>> piano,
>>>> > > (without my having seen it!), is far better than the Chinese Crap that
>> is
>>>> > > out there today, imo. It's actually made out of real wood. What the
>> client
>>>> > > paid for it is of no relevence! Just fix it and they will have a good
>>>> > > piano
>>>> > > for their uses. That's my take on that
>>>> > > Joe
>>>> > >
>>>> > >
>>>> > > Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
>>>> > > Captain of the Tool Police
>>>>  > > Squares R I
>>>> > >
>>>> > > 
>>> >
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 


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