[pianotech] Cleaning Very Old Plate (now string cleaning)

[johnparham at piano88.com]

Doug,

You've shared method #2 with us before, but I have not tried it yet. You
say they look like new strings, but how do they sound? Like new strings
as well?

-John Parham

> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: [pianotech] Cleaning Very Old Plate (now string cleaning)
> From: Douglas Gregg <classicpianodoc at gmail.com>
> Date: Wed, May 23, 2012 10:08 pm
> To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org>
> 
> 
> Thumpe,
> 
> All I can say is you are a brave man. I use Brake cleaner as a solvent
> for cleaning brake parts and sometimes carburetors and metal parts
> that are really greasy. It is an incredibly strong mixture of
> solvents. It is probably the strongest solvent mixture that you can
> buy. It will take off paint, lacquer, and most other finishes except
> polyester. I don't doubt that a slight drip would remove some finish.
> The fumes are horrendous too. I only use it outside in the driveway
> with a breeze blowing.
> 
> However, your thinking is good. Removing grease, tar, and nicotine
> from strings makes them sing again.
> 
> Another Method for string cleaning:
> 
> Try this method that I discovered following a small experiment with CA
> glue. In my home piano (a very old Horace Waters with an ornate case)
> I had a buzzing bass string that would not respond to any of the usual
> treatments. So I figured I would have to replace the string but first
> I would experiment a little. After all the patient is terminal- right.
> I put a drop of CA glue on the end of the string where I thought the
> wrappings might not be tight. Well, it totally killed the string. Then
> I thought, what would dissolve the CA glue. Well, not much. I tried a
> variety of strong solvents. No dice. Then I figured, what is dry CA
> glue but polymerized acrylic plastic. Plastic will burn. So I took out
> my handy propane torch and sure enough it lit up like a candle. Then
> the string sounded better than when I started- no buzz and brighter.
> So I torched a little more or the string and it got brighter, and then
> the whole string. It eventually sounded like a new string. Then the
> rest of the strings were very tubby in comparison. So I torched all of
> them carefully . They all sound good now. I did not replace any of
> them.
> 
> What I think happens is that all the contamination burns and smokes
> off. Now I have done this in at least a dozen pianos, both uprights
> and grands. First I use a wire wheel in a drill to clean the strings
> and shine them up. The reason for this is to be able to gauge the
> color of the heated copper windings when torching them. Wire brushing
> does help the brightness of the sound a little but not much.  I torch
> the largest strings first. Move the torch up and down the string to
> heat it evenly. Watch the color of the string. It will first change
> from bright to an old gold color. This is the time to stop heating.
> You don't want to heat it to a blue color. That can kill the string.
> Don't ask me how I know. The color change is slightly delayed too, so
> stop as soon as the old gold color appears. The small strings are easy
> to overheat. I protect the soundboard with a piece of aluminum
> flashing behind the strings- the biggest piece that will fit. Mine is
> about 1 x 2 feet. I don't bother taking the tension off the strings.
> They will go flat and will need to be tuned again but they will be
> much brighter.
> 
> Method 2
> 
> I have been working on this for about 6 years off and on. For this,
> you have to take all the strings out and straighten the coils. Bundle
> them like a new set. Put the coil in an enamel or stainless straight
> sided pot/bucket about 14 inches in diameter. Otherwise, you can't
> force the bundle down to the bottom. I then add a 1:1 mixture of
> Limeaway(phosphoric acid) and vinegar and two table spoons of
> trisodium phosphate detergent or Calgon dishwasher powder in a pinch.
> Completely cover the strings with liquid. I then take it OUTSIDE and
> put the enamel pot in an electric fry pan and add some water to the
> fry pan to make a double boiler. I heat it to boiling for 1 hour. The
> strings will look like new. I then let it cool to room temperature and
> pour off the acid and save it for next time. Rinse 3 or 4 times in
> water in the enamel pot, then add several tablespoons of baking soda
> to the last rinse. Let sit for 10 minutes while preheating an oven to
> 250 F. AFTER the oven is preheated, turn it off, and  put the strings
> in the oven to heat and dry. If you don't preheat the oven, the
> heating is intense around the edges and will overheat some strings.
> Yes,I know. Now it is ready to eat-or rather to restring. The acid is
> neutralized by the water rinses and the baking soda and will not start
> rusting again. They will look like new strings- even the blackest ones
> you ever saw.
> 
> Now you know my darkest secret formula.
> 
> Doug Gregg
> Classic Piano Doc
> Southold, NY
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 19:12:00 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Euphonious Thumpe <lclgcnp at yahoo.com>
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Cleaning Very Old Plate
> Message-ID:
>        <1337739120.69108.YahooMailMobile at web114719.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> That&#39;s astonishing!
>  I used to clean bass strings by blasting/spraying them ( after
> disconnecting the hitch pin end and putting thick plastic between them
> and the piano) with brake part cleaner. A large amount of filth would
> settle in puddles in the plastic on the keybed, or in folds if a grand
> out on the porch, and a nearly "like new" tone and appearance ensue.
> (After also running them all through the "Dethubbomator", of course.)
> The brake part cleaner left no residue, but, problem was, occasionally
> an errant drop of the stuff ( mostly xylene) would leak out onto some
> part of the piano where not wanted, creating light spot on finish and
> dark mood in customer. And TOXIC!!! (Leaving one unsure of the purpose
> of existence itself, for several days, if gotten through or around
> even a  top-notch carbon mask. Very, very dangerous!)
> 
>   After seeing those photos, I look forward to trying your method on
> the built-like-a-tank Mathushek grand I&#39;m now dismantling!
> 
> Much thanks!
> Thumpe