Steinway underlevers

McNeilTom@aol.com McNeilTom@aol.com
Wed Jan 6 19:49 MST 1999


Dear Fred, and List -

It's not necessary to remove all the dampers and the tray to fix the
occassional flange in the older Steinways.  Try this:   Just remove the
individual damper that's in trouble.  Then reach under the underlever and
under the protruding portion of the "bottom flange" with a screw driver.  Use
the screw driver as a lever to pry the flange from the tray.  In my
experience, they always pop off easily and without damage.  Then do whatever
repair is necessary and replace the flange on the tray.  If you don't "clean
up" the glued surfaces, they will align perfectly because of the remnants of
old glue and an occassional splinter.  I like to make the new glue joint with
cold hide glue.  I have some old stuff that's been around here for ever.  It
seems to be strong enough to hold well, yet the joint can be broken easily
enough if needed in the future.  

You'll have to figure a way to clamp the flange to the tray. I have used two
or three rubber mutes to wedge it in place.  The cold glue takes over night to
dry, which could be a problem in some emergency situations.  In that case, you
could use faster-setting glue, perhaps even CA.  If you make the joint "wicked
strong" [as they say in Vermont], you may have to remove the tray next time
around!

None of this is to disuade you from replacing the system using the Renner kit.
That's the proper way to do it, and the sostenuto will work more smoothly and
last longer.

Best wishes for a fulfilling and prosperous New Year to all our colleagues !

  -    Tom McNeil, RPT    -
Vermont Piano Restorations


In a message dated 99-01-06 12:39:10 EST, Fred Sturm writes:

<< 	BTW, I figured if I did the insert job, I'd install screws in the
 flanges, assuming they're glued and that hasn't been done already. Not
 that much work, and worth avoiding removal of the entire tray to fix one
 flange, even once! 
 
 Thanks to all for the feedback.
 
 Fred Sturm, RPT
 Univ of NM  >>


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