Horace, In answer to your question about the pictures, I beleive I can answer that. Michael used a Sony Mavica digital camera. It is the same camera and techniques we are using for the Wapin Co., LLP installation CD. A picture is worth a 1000 words. Tim Coates Wapin Co., LLP > From: Horace Greeley <hgreeley@stanford.edu> > Reply-To: caut@ptg.org > Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2000 08:58:17 -0800 > To: caut@ptg.org > Subject: Re: Chickering Brass Flanges > > > Michael, > > Hmmm - one might have suspected that the first "job" of 2000 would involve > an antedeluvian (well, ok, at least antebellum) Chickering. > > As to the shanks, Renner used to make shanks with "close enough" pin to > knuckle measurements to be usable. The trick was to machine down the > sides of the shanks to match the more narrow Chickering originals. It > is fairly easy to make a jig for this purpose; over the years I have > used both a router setup and a disk sander. The trick, of course, is > to get the material removed equally from both sides...you knew that. > > The flanges are another matter. I have always felt that part of > Chickering's trouble was being just a bit too far ahead of whatever > curve was acceptable. The use of brass in actions actually made > very good sense at the time (as does the use of graphite action parts, > and laminated soundboards today). From what I can make out from > your pictures, the ones with which you are dealing are not the ones > with some extra convolutions at the tongue. That being the case, > a competent machinist should be able to mill you some of these > from (relatively) standard brass stock. Having worked on a number of > these over the years, let me urge you to have that worthy make a > couple dozen, not just the four or five you need at the moment. > > Also, while I would certainly like to know what methods others > have used, I (eventually) gave up trying to glue new bushings > into these flanges, and used the tightest weave cloth I could find, > sized with a heated steel wire (held in a truly Harvey-esque device > constructed from a 25 watt soldering iron with a light dimmer in > its line cord). "Normal" gluing either did not hold against the > brass, or permeated the cloth - making it hard beyond use. > > Cool pictures, by the way - How did you do that? Any particular > suggestions? > > Thanks, and best of luck. > > Horace > > > > At 06:31 PM 12/31/1999 -0500, you wrote: >> I have a 1895 Chickering grand which was just purchased by a private >> customer. I wants to replace the hammers and shanks using the existing >> setup. I am looking for a supplier of the brass flanges as well as what >> would now be considered custom shanks. See the pictures at the link >> below. >> >> I only need 5 or 6 flanges. We plan to rebush the brass. We will need >> shanks. >> >> You help would be appreciated. Please respond to the email address in >> my signature. Thanks. >> >> http://216.149.138.152/images/brassflnge1.jpg >> http://216.149.138.152/images/brassflnge2.jpg >> -- >> Michael Wathen >> http://www.wapin.com > > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > Horace Greeley, email: hgreeley@stanford.edu > CNA, MCP, RPT > Systems Analyst/Engineer voice: 650.725.9062 > Controller's Office fax: 650.725.8014 > Stanford University > 651 Serra St., RM 100, MC 6215 > Stanford, CA 94305-6215 > > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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