Fred, Seems like I remember reading in the Journal some time ago about using a regular wood tongue depressor done the same way. Avery >Rather than put punchings on each front pin, I use a little wooden >aftertouch gauge. You can make one from a piece of wood like the ones >Renner uses to ship shanks. Cut a slit in the end to fit a pin with a >bit of slop. Reduce the thickness to 0.050" on a disc sander or the >like. Cut a bit from each side, back about an inch to clear natural >front pins when measuring sharps. > With the gauge, you just slip it under each key in turn, on top of the >felt punching. Saves quite a bit of time and hassle over adding and >removing individual card punchings. Or, anyway, I think so. > I like to see the hammer stop rising when I hear a click (key against >gauge), then see the hammer start to let off as I press a bit into the >felt punching. >Regards, >Fred Sturm > > >Newton Hunt wrote: >> >>snip< >> After touch. Put .050" punchings on top of the front punching and >> determine how much key movement there is after the jack has lost contact >> with the knuckle. There should be none. That .050" is the clearance >> needed. >> >> Newton
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