Now What? and clicking jacks

[Ed Sutton]

For what it's worth, if you compare 1920s S&S hammer flanges with 1980s S&S
hammer flanges, you'll find the tongue (that the jack clicks against) is
about 1.2mm longer on the 1980s flange.
The Renner S&S flange is long like the 1980s Genuine S&S flange.
The Tokiwa S&S flange is short like the 1920s Genuine S&S flange.
The center pins are also a little further out on the Renner/1980s flanges.

One commonly sees wippens from the early 20th century with the little wire
hooks to limit down travel of the rep. lever. Perhaps this prevented jack
clicks by stopping the wippen against the drop screw.

Ed Sutton



----------
>From: Avery Todd <atodd@UH.EDU>
>To: caut@ptg.org
>Subject: Now What?
>Date: Fri, Aug 23, 2002, 9:10 AM
>

> List,
>
> As if trying to learn the touchweight thing right now isn't enough,
> I've just discovered that the new S & S flanges in the Renner parts
> kit are one mm thinner (6mm) than the old flanges (7mm) and won't
> tighten down normally. I'm afraid to put too much pressure on them
> for fear of splitting something. The screws are 17mm long from under
> the head and the holes are app. 10mm deep from the top of the felt.
>
> The rail already has that thicker type of old brown felt on it and
> the red cloth I was intending to use would be thinner!
>
> I've never had this problem before and didn't realize there were
> different thicknesses in the Steinway flanges! Boy, I'd hate to
> reuse those ugly, dark brown old flanges on the new shanks! And here
> I was getting ready to actually do some measuring! :-)
>
> However, I just thought of adding a washer and that makes it tighten
> down fine. The flange doesn't have a cut-out for a washer, so would
> there be any problem with that?
>
> What now?
>
> Avery