changing hammer line

[Lance Lafargue]

>On Masons and Bechsteins the hammers are NOT hung at 90 degrees to the
>shank.  The Mason the strike point is tilted 1 degree towards the keys
>and the Bechstein only God and the assembler knows what and why.

It's a Bechstein, so I'll be in prayer tonight ; ), (since Bechstein is no
help). I'll look at originals. Thanks for the post.  I will be digesting for
a bit.

How about the idea that w/out voicing and regulation, strike location can't
be finalized?  Thanks again,

Lance Lafargue, RPT
Mandeville, LA
New Orleans Chapter, PTG
lancelafargue@bellsouth.net
985.72P.IANO




-----Original Message-----
From: owner-caut@ptg.org [mailto:owner-caut@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Newton
Hunt
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 4:29 PM
To: caut@ptg.org
Subject: Re: changing hammer line


The casting of plates vary so you will need to locate the optimum
location of the top three sections.

Sort the shanks according to the tightness of the pinning, tighter ones
in the bass and the looser ones in the treble.

Bore the hammers to that one piano and add only about .5 mm more (but no
more than) to the bore distance than the piano calls for.  (The
difference between string height and hammer pin height)  Use Spurlock's
tapering jig to taper the hammers from strike point to tail tip, two or
three thou of the strike point and about 0.060" off the tail (each
side). Weigh the hammers to see where they lie along the weight chart
provided by David Stanwood.

First, normal distance (on an S&S) is 5.125" (use a caliper) so start
there with the two end hammers of each of the three top sections.  Cut
the shank to leave just about 1/16" sticking out of the back of the
hammer.

Spit on the shank or blow the same substance into the hole and put the
two together.  You will be able to move them back and forth (hold the
shank VERY firmly)  When you have the best possible sound carefully
check the verticality of the hammer and that the molding is 90 degrees
to the shank and that it is nicely traveled.  When all is perfect put
some accelerator on the inside of the shank/molding and put some thin CA
on the stub of the shank.  The moisture inside the hole will help cure
the CA and the accelerator will prevent it running down the shank just
in case it doesn't.  Hang the rest at 5.125".  If this is an S&S of
course.  If it is another then follow your instincts and training.

On Masons and Bechsteins the hammers are NOT hung at 90 degrees to the
shank.  The Mason the strike point is tilted 1 degree towards the keys
and the Bechstein only God and the assembler knows what and why.

After the hammers are hung then you can take off the ends of the shanks
and shape the tail by using a disk sander and a 2.5" radius.  Do each
one, one at a time and before screwing back onto the rail check the
pinning.  You will not be stressing pinning again so this should be the
final pinning.

Have fun.