finger gunk poll

[Jim Kinnear]

I have been using some stuff called Udderly Smooth, available at Walmart. It
is actually what farmers use, as the name suggests, for keeping teats  in
order, and it works GREAT on ivory ..  go figure . .
Jim Kinnear
------------------
The early bird may get the worm,
but the second mouse gets the
cheese.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan McCoy" <amccoy@mail.ewu.edu>
To: "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 4:10 PM
Subject: RE: finger gunk poll


> I tried a new magic potion today. VM & P Naptha. Worked very well, didn't
> remove any stain, dries fast and clean. It just dissolves the gunk, which
> ends up in the cloth, and dries. Fumes are not bad.
>
> Today's quiz: Why is a Steinway monkey called a monkey?
>
> Alan McCoy
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Jim
> > Harvey
> > Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 7:27 PM
> > To: caut@ptg.org
> > Subject: Re: finger gunk poll
> >
> >
> > This is essentially a summary of previous replies, with personal
> > variations. I was going to reply earlier, but someone threw me off by
> > discussing what sounded like key TOP cleaning. Assuming we're
> > talking about
> > the key SIDES...
> >
> > Starting with the dry, undisturbed keystick that contains finger
> > gunk, aka
> > 'cooties';
> >
> > - use an old-fashioned single-edge razor blade, with or without a
holder,
> > and positioned either straight down (dulls faster), or at a slight
angle.
> > The idea is to 'drag' scrape, not cut, so while grain direction should
be
> > observed, it's not that critical on most keysets. This removes the
> > crustaceans that grow on top of the wood. The blade is also effective at
> > the keystick and sharp juncture, including where fingernails have
> > undercut
> > the keystick.Toss the blade on completion;
> >
> > - for the remaining surface and pore discoloration, I've tried numerous
> > things. However, when considering costs, time involved, and minimal
> > exposure to haz-mats, I invariably return to Parson's sudsy ammonia. At
> > best, it removes all residual traces of dirt. At worst, it spreads
> > everything out to provide an illusion of overall cleanliness. A working
> > amount of the ammonia is poured out into a disposable container
> > (paper cup,
> > etc.) for dipping the applicator;
> >
> > - the applicator can be just about anything. Pre-wetting the
> > keystick with
> > ammonia is not required, but is sometimes an expedient on really nasty
> > keys. If pre-wetting, use a disposable foam brush, acid brush or hammer
> > felt scraps. For the final (might be the only) pass, a rag or shop towel
> > works, but again considering time versus results, I use a small square
of
> > fine (white) Skotch-Brite abrasive pad (aka steel wool substitute),
which
> > easily rinses during use, before finally being tossed. I've also
> > considered
> > trying one of those nylon bath puffs, or even wadded-up pantyhose.
Either
> > of these untried methods would defeat the purpose of keeping costs low
> > (since the puffs don't lend themselves to being cut to smaller sizes,
and
> > since I don't routinely have old pantyhose about).
> >
> > - Aside: I just heard a report that bath puffs have a slightly
> > longer life
> > than loufa sponges in terms of undesirable bacteria retention, and that
> > loufa sponges are rated slightly longer than kitchen sponges,
> > which have a
> > service life of ... one use!
> >
> > Therefore, regardless of method, considering that what we're cleaning is
> > unknown but undeniably nasty, the focus should be on expendable tools
and
> > materials.
> >
> >
> > Jim Harvey, RPT
> > Greenwood, SC
> > harvey@greenwood.net
> > ________________________
> >   -- someone who's been in the field too long.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
>
> _______________________________________________
> caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives