damper lever ht.

[A440A@aol.com]

Wim writes:

<<  But isn't the pitman the block of wood into which the tray is attached by 
the 
pin? 

  No, the pitman is the rod connecting the trapwork to the damper tray.  

 >> The question I 
have is, how much should I lower the pivot point to lower the height of the 
lever 
an 1/8"? And I should, I presume, cut off the block and redrill the screw 
holes, right?  >>

No,  just drill another hole in each of the pivot blocks for your damper tray 
pins.  If it doesn't work, it is very easy to go back to the original holes 
and use taller key end felt. However, you don't want to raise the underlevers 
so much that the sostenuto won't work.  
   If you take the action out, then unscrew the treble pivot block, you can 
then lower the tray until you see that the underlever is nearly horizontal, 
press the pivot block against the pin and it will make a slight dent.  This is a 
starting point.  Drill directly under the existing hole so you don't change 
your fore and aft.  
   Caveats: 
    If you lower the pivot points on the blocks, the underlever will be too 
high for the key ends,(the nose of the underlever goes up when the flange goes 
down). If you measure an exact horizontal, be aware that you will have to 
lower the underlever some to reestablish proper damper timing. Make sure you have 
long enough damper wires! 
    Make sure there is room for the tray above the dags.
    Make sure you are not drilling too large of a hole, it will make noise if 
you do. 
   If you drill wrong, it is easy to install a 1/4" or 1/2" plug and do it 
again.  
Good luck,  

Ed Foote RPT 
www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/
www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html
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