When this is first mentioned... I find that about the only amount of tail roughing that is needed, is that which removes any glazing or polishing of the wood that comes from lots of use. I almost never use more then a few (3-4) pulls with 120 grit paper. Much like singe hammer filing.. shoe shine style. JME RicB John Hartman wrote: > > Jim Busby wrote: > > List, > > > > I forgot to put that I don't believe in checkering the tails because it > > tears up the backchecks. If the proper regulation is achieved i.e. > > angles etc. "checkering" is unnecessary, IMHO. I think they have to > > rough the tails to force the action to work properly. > > > > Jim, > > I agree, checkering is hard on the backcheck leather and it's noisy. But > it is often the only way to get hammers made from smooth wood to check > reliably. I often find it necessary to checker the tails of hammers with > hornbeam, maple or birch moldings. Mahogany and walnut work beautifully > with just a little roughening from a file card or 50 grit sand paper. > > John Hartman RPT > > John Hartman Pianos [link redacted at request of site owner - Jul 25, 2015] > Rebuilding Steinway and Mason & Hamlin > Grand Pianos Since 1979 > > Piano Technicians Journal > Journal Illustrator/Contributing Editor [link redacted at request of site owner - Jul 25, 2015] > > _______________________________________________ > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives -- Richard Brekne RPT, N.P.T.F. UiB, Bergen, Norway mailto:rbrekne@broadpark.no http://home.broadpark.no/~rbrekne/ricmain.html http://www.hf.uib.no/grieg/personer/cv_RB.html
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