Moving Knuckle position with the Kaplan Jig

Erwinspiano@aol.com Erwinspiano@aol.com
Thu, 12 Aug 2004 01:12:45 EDT


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In a message dated 8/11/2004 7:31:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,  
madvinmryk@yahoo.com writes:
  Hi Vince
 Leverage is leverage. So how much trouble is it to move  capstans compared 
to what I described? Know what I mean? To me it's more  invasive more time 
consuming & harder to set up accurately. I also have an  aversion to twisting any 
thing unnecessarily, 88 times. This is waaay easier  & a more accurate 
predictable outcome.
   Regards
   Dale

I would, however, did you say why you moved the knuckles rather than the  
capstans?

Erwinspiano@aol.com wrote:  
List 
 
  I thought I'd post an update of this  project.
   Last month I posted about needing to move  knuckles on a few sets of 
shanks. All were renner parts for stwys with  the 15.5 mm knuckle to center pin 
distance. This part is almost always a  recipe for a heavy touch unless extremely 
light hammers are used or  prepped.  
   The jig I used is made by Roland Kaplan  R.T.T. of San Jose. He was quite 
generous & loaned it to me for  experimentation & to copy if I wish. I do.
   This simple jig is very accurate & very  quick Making both economical to 
do in terms of time & dollars. I spent  10 minutes setting it up & getting 
familiar with the function.  After cutting  a few dozen myself I turned it over to 
My  bright & ever capable 17 yr. old son Jacob. Kinda  proud
   He took a complete set of shanks &  removed all the knuckles on the 
bandsaw . Time 25 minutes. Then he wnet  straight to the jig. Time to cut all the 
slots & in one pass , 20  minutes.
  Then he glued in the new parts in about  40 minutes. Total time About 1 & 
1/2 hr.. Tokiwa knuckles are $125.00  & Renners are $145.00 Plus Jacob's time
   Once the jig is set up the craftsmen made  blade I used cut a perfectly 
fit slot for both Tokiwa & Renner  knuckles. It only tore out a small corner of 
the original rosewood  molding. A slower movement eliminated this.
  Safety:
    I added some small safety rails to  prevent any Exposure of the operator 
to the blade. I'm  going to copy the jig & make only minor modifications.
   I realize this is a job one doesn't do  very often But considering the 
cost of parts at about $400ish plus the  hammers & prep, etc., it can save the 
client a ton & you can be the  hero.  If the hammers that came on the shanks 
with wrong  dimensioned knuckle placement are worth reusing the jig allows for 
that  option as well which really save the cost of half an  action rebuild.
 
  How many of us would be interested in a jig like  this? Let me know. What 
would it be worth to purchase a premade jig from  Spurlock or Farrel or anyone 
willing to make it.? Just curious
  Cheers
   Dale  Erwin




Vince  Mrykalo
University of Utah


 

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