sawing off hammershank tails

[Nichols]

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Jim,
    That one happens to be the one you use with the right-angle attachment 
of a Rotozip tool. Noisy but very handy for field (or convention) work. 
That one tool gives you a bunch of options when you don't wanna ship or 
schlep extra stuff. It's like a Dremel on steroids.The wheels have holes in 
them that allow you to actually see the work quite well, as you create 
buckets of sawdust. It may have been a 60 grit. It's also a bit smaller in 
diameter, so it will wear out a little sooner. (like--- 20 sets of tails 
instead of 30... big deal)

Wear your safety glasses,
Later,
Guy

At 05:41 PM 2/19/2004 -0700, you wrote:

>Guy,
>
>
>
>I saw you do this at a convention (Reno?) and was quite impressed. But you 
>used a special sanding disc you could see through . What was that and 
>where do you get them?
>
>Thanks
>
>
>
>Jim Busby BYU
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Nichols
>Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 5:31 PM
>To: College and University Technicians
>Subject: Re: sawing off hammershank tails
>
>
>
>Wim,
>    I take off the shank bits at the same time I shape the tails. I clamp 
> up a section of hammers with a standard sandwich clamp, and grind off the 
> bits with a right-angle grinder fitted with a couple of thicknesses of 50 
> grit wheels. 41/2 to 6 inch dia.. I prefer the air tool variety, but a 
> 19.99 Harbor Freight grinder will work. Air gives you a lot more control, 
> and runs a bit quieter. Come by the rebuilding skills class at Annual for 
> a demo. I learned it from Jamie Marks and have been using it for years. 
> After taking off the bits I shape the tails, and the 50 grit leaves the 
> wood just right for positive checking without tearing up the leather. No 
> checkering file needed. I often reshape existing tails for the heck of it 
> now, because it's about 10 minutes to make a huge difference on some of 
> the older, angled-and-mangled imports.
>
>Later,
>Guiy
>

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