mini belts

[llafargue]

Great Ron.  If anyone wants to go cheaper, they can cut a thin piece of
paneling or plywood, then saw a dowel in half length ways and glue it
onto the sides of the handle to make it easier to grip. I sawed off the
end of the ping pong paddle to make it smaller and I use very heavy grit
on one side like maybe 60 grit (?) for the rough work, then 120 or so on
the other side, then I use strips of 200, etc to smooth out before a
final quick ironing.  The use for rough work is great especially for the
Steinway facets on each side like the / and \ at 10 and 2 o'clock where
lots of material has to be taken off at times.  

Lance Lafargue, RPT
LAFARGUE PIANOS
New Orleans Chapter, PTG
985.72P.IANO
llafargue@charter.net
 

-----Original Message-----
From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of
Ron Koval
Sent: Monday, May 24, 2004 1:44 PM
To: caut@ptg.org
Subject: mini belts

Lance,

Thanks for posting this.  I'd seen over the years all sorts of sanding 
paddles, but never thought of using a ping pong paddle.  I had an old
one in 
the basement, and gave it a try.... WOW!  It helped me to square off the

sides and top to make it more rectangular, and shorten the handle, but
for 
the rough work, it really speeds things up.  And less potentially
damaging 
than the Dremel sanding barrel.

Ron Koval
Chicagoland





Wim, just my experience.  I have one, but, I now slip wood under the
shanks of upright or block up tails on grands and use a ping pong paddle
to do the two side facets or rough initial stuff with about 40-60 grit,
then refine with strips.  This actually faster for me.  I just never
went back to the belt.

Lance Lafargue, RPT
LAFARGUE PIANOS
New Orleans Chapter, PTG
985.72P.IANO
llafargue@charter.net

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