mini belts

[Mark Cramer]

Joe,

thanks for making so many interesting/innovative tools available.

I have been using both 1" and 4" paddles for a number of years now.

The 1" paddles were inspired by Carl's (sorry, his last name evades me)
clever "electric-carving knife" adaptation. (the 4" paddles were part of
this purchase)

Though his crafty device works well, I wasn't happy with my ability to keep
hammer crowns square with the 1/2" sandpaper, nor the short stroke afforded
by the electric tool.

I made the first set of 1" paddles out of desperation, needing to get an
action back in the piano, within the tuning appointment. They were made from
a maple paint-stir-stick, with coarse cloth-backed paper.

I was amazed!

Deeply-grooved bass-hammers could be filed in this fashion (2-at-a-time),
retaining the original shape of the hammer shoulders, and keeping crowns
square, and a full section filed in 5 minutes... or less!

Finishing with the 4" paddles and finer paper leaves a very precise job,
with little, if any tell-tale "swindling" of shoulders, common to gang-filed
angled hammers.

One thing I havn't come up with yet, is a quick-change method for the
sandpaper (though it appears you've found one). I'll I can say, is don't
bother with velcro!  :>)

Mark Cramer,
Brandon University





-----Original Message-----
From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Joe
And Penny Goss
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 12:32 PM
To: oleg-i@noos.fr; College and University Technicians; Pianotech
Subject: Re: mini belts


Hi Isaac, It is no trick. Just a faster removal of felt, that is if you have
the correct grit 50 or 60 and fresh paper. Then finish up with fine grit
down to 240 or so. We have three widths of paddles. 1/2" ,  1",  and 2" The
1/2" can be used on any hammer, but is especially designed for bass and
angled hammers. The 1" is for inline hammers and the tenor if they are not
on an angle.
The 2" paddle is designed to be able to have the paper replaced in seconds
for a different grit and is used on straight hammers and to level the
striking point of all hammers.
My paddles are especially useful on upright actions ( the action must be
removed ) but allow the tech to develop a technique and let them use the
same on both uprights and grands.
Pictures on my site below
Joe Goss
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Isaac OLEG" <oleg-i@noos.fr>
To: "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 10:21 AM
Subject: RE: mini belts


>
> Ping Pong paddle ? are these Chinese technical tricks ?
>
> Is not it heavier than any filing setup ?
>
> Isaac OLEG
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De la part de
> Ron
> Koval
> Envoyé : lundi 24 mai 2004 20:44
> À : caut@ptg.org
> Objet : mini belts
>
>
> Lance,
>
> Thanks for posting this.  I'd seen over the years all sorts of sanding
> paddles, but never thought of using a ping pong paddle.  I had an old
> one in
> the basement, and gave it a try.... WOW!  It helped me to square off
> the
> sides and top to make it more rectangular, and shorten the handle, but
> for
> the rough work, it really speeds things up.  And less potentially
> damaging
> than the Dremel sanding barrel.
>
> Ron Koval
> Chicagoland
>
>
>
>
>
> Wim, just my experience.  I have one, but, I now slip wood under the
> shanks of upright or block up tails on grands and use a ping pong
> paddle
> to do the two side facets or rough initial stuff with about 40-60
> grit,
> then refine with strips.  This actually faster for me.  I just never
> went back to the belt.
>
> Lance Lafargue, RPT
> LAFARGUE PIANOS
> New Orleans Chapter, PTG
> 985.72P.IANO
> llafargue@charter.net
>
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