---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Thanks for the detailed post. This is well thought out and explained. =20= I've been getting lots of ideas from everyone's posts. Chris On Dec 14, 2005, at 9:25 AM, Fred Sturm wrote: > Hi Chris, > =A0=A0 =A0My preference for tying tails is to attach my dowel with a = cup=20 > hook in the end to a solid surface (I use a spring clamp to attach it=20= > to the metal tool case I keep my wire in). Then I use both hands to=20 > wind the tail. It's a matter of holding tight to the wire, maintaining=20= > tension, maintaining a 90 degree angle between the two ends. Start=20 > with the wire crossed in the correct direction to match existing coils=20= > (clock-wise or counter - it's just for aesthetics). Make one twist:=20 > hands rotate a full turn around one another, then let go with one hand=20= > and reach around and grab the same end (maybe use a finger of the=20 > other hand to keep that end in place). Repeat the process for four=20 > twists (or however many the harpsichord has on average). Finish off by=20= > holding the main wire taut and making cylindrical loops around it -=20 > this mostly for looks. This takes some finesse to keep it neat,=20 > especially getting the first one neat. I find this gives me the best=20= > control of the twists, and I've become quite fast at it. It is the=20 > technique I have used to string a number of harpsichords, as well as=20= > replace countless broken strings. (The other method - where one end of=20= > the wire is clamped to a table or whatever, the other held taut with=20= > fingers of hand or pliers, and the second hand twists the hook between=20= > those two points - works well also. A matter of preference and of what=20= > results you are satisfied with). > Regards, > Fred Sturm > University of New Mexico > fssturm@unm.edu > > PS Just remembered I wrote about this in more detail a couple years=20 > ago, and actually found the post: > =A0 =A0On the assumption you are matching double helix loops with a = coil=20 > finish (the > most common, looks like bass string hitch loops): > 1) You need a fixed substitute for the hitch pin. A large cup hook=20 > mounted to the > edge of a table works. Or a headless nail held in a vice. Whatever it=20= > is, it needs > to be positioned so that there are no obstructions in front of it (to=20= > allow free > movement of your hands). It should be of a large enough diameter so=20 > that the loop > formed can easily fit over the hitch pin later. (I mostly use a cup=20 > hook screwed > into the end of a dowel. I attach this with a spring clamp to the edge=20= > of my cheap, > metal harpsichord tool/supply case, or to the front edge of the=20 > harpsichord - if the finish isn't too fancy). > 2) Pull the wire around the dummy pin, so that it goes completely=20 > around and > crosses at a right angle. You need enough "waste length" to get a good=20= > grip. 6 to > 10 inches should suffice. Hold the wire in that position with one hand=20= > - the hand > that you will use throughout to hold the speaking length. You will=20 > need to have > decided whether the waste length goes over or under based on the=20 > direction you want > to the coils to go (look at one of the loops you are matching). > 3) Take the hand that is not holding the wire, and place it over or=20 > under the other > hand (depending whether the waste length is over or under the speaking=20= > length) and > grab the waste length. Holding the wire taut with both hands, and so=20= > that the > string forms a right angle where it meets, rotate both arms in a full=20= > circle around > one another (easier to show than describe this sort of thing), keeping=20= > the wire > taut and at right angle at all times, so that it actually makes clear=20= > and sharp > bends/coils around itself (each bends around the other). If you have=20= > been > successful, you should be able to let go with one hand, and the wire=20= > will pretty > much stay put. > 4) Repeat the above as many times as needed to create the number of=20 > coils desired. > Steady, even movement, with wire held taut at all times, and=20 > maintaining the 90 > degree angle between wire ends, will allow for even, neat appearance. > 5) For the finish coil, hold the speaking length of the wire taut with=20= > one hand, > pulling straight toward yourself. With the other hand, pull the waste=20= > length of > wire neatly around the speaking length. It is essential that the wire=20= > be held taut > at all times, and a bit of finesse is needed to start the coil evenly.=20= > Again, the > waste length hand lets go, and is moved around the speaking length=20 > hand to grab the > waste length again. And you make as many tight, even coils as needed=20= > to match the > original. > 6) Cut the wire, leaving a short segment (match originals), which will=20= > rest on the > hitch pin rail to help assure the coils don't unwind. It is necessary=20= > to plan so > that the final direction of that bit of waste length is under the=20 > speaking length. > =A0 =A0 A caution - don't overdo tightness of coils. If they are too=20= > tight, you will > have tail breakage. But if they are not tight enough, they'll want to=20= > unwind. You > have to use good judgment here. > > > > > On Dec 13, 2005, at 8:03 AM, Christopher Purdy wrote: > >> Has anyone been in contact with Willard Martin? I have been trying to=20= >> get in touch with him for weeks. Our two Martin harpsichords need=20 >> parts and my stock is getting thin. >> >> If not Willard, can anyone suggest another supplier for strings and=20= >> plectra? I don't mind making my own string replacements but it sure=20= >> has been convenient to have them pre cut and the hitch pin coil ready=20= >> to go. Who makes their own hitch pin coils? Do you use a piano string=20= >> coil maker or something else? >> >> Also, while I'm on a roll, I'm thinking about restringing our french=20= >> double in the recital hall. It has been very reliable for the first=20= >> fifteen years I have been here but this last couple of years it seems=20= >> to have gone into a slump. I often get a broken string during tuning=20= >> now where before it was very rare. I am also wanting to replace all=20= >> the pluckers. I have a faculty member practicing in here daily now=20 >> and these dudes are breaking all over the place. At this rate, it=20 >> will have all new plectra soon anyway... >> >> Thanks for your input, >> Chris >> >> Christopher D. Purdy R.P.T. >> School of Music, Ohio University >> Rm. 311, Robt. Glidden Hall >> Athens, OH 45701 >> Office (740) 593-1656 >> Cell (740) 590-3842 >> fax (740) 593-1429 >> http://www.ohiou.edu/music >> >> Christopher D. Purdy R.P.T. School of Music, Ohio University Rm. 311, Robt. Glidden Hall Athens, OH 45701 Office (740) 593-1656 Cell (740) 590-3842 fax (740) 593-1429 http://www.ohiou.edu/music ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: text/enriched Size: 7115 bytes Desc: not available Url : https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/e7/26/be/38/attachment.bin ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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