[CAUT] Speaking of harpsicords

[Fred Sturm]

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Hi Chris,
     My preference for tying tails is to attach my dowel with a cup  
hook in the end to a solid surface (I use a spring clamp to attach it  
to the metal tool case I keep my wire in). Then I use both hands to  
wind the tail. It's a matter of holding tight to the wire,  
maintaining tension, maintaining a 90 degree angle between the two  
ends. Start with the wire crossed in the correct direction to match  
existing coils (clock-wise or counter - it's just for aesthetics).  
Make one twist: hands rotate a full turn around one another, then let  
go with one hand and reach around and grab the same end (maybe use a  
finger of the other hand to keep that end in place). Repeat the  
process for four twists (or however many the harpsichord has on  
average). Finish off by holding the main wire taut and making  
cylindrical loops around it - this mostly for looks. This takes some  
finesse to keep it neat, especially getting the first one neat. I  
find this gives me the best control of the twists, and I've become  
quite fast at it. It is the technique I have used to string a number  
of harpsichords, as well as replace countless broken strings. (The  
other method - where one end of the wire is clamped to a table or  
whatever, the other held taut with fingers of hand or pliers, and the  
second hand twists the hook between those two points - works well  
also. A matter of preference and of what results you are satisfied  
with).
Regards,
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
fssturm@unm.edu

PS Just remembered I wrote about this in more detail a couple years  
ago, and actually found the post:
    On the assumption you are matching double helix loops with a coil  
finish (the
most common, looks like bass string hitch loops):
1) You need a fixed substitute for the hitch pin. A large cup hook  
mounted to the
edge of a table works. Or a headless nail held in a vice. Whatever it  
is, it needs
to be positioned so that there are no obstructions in front of it (to  
allow free
movement of your hands). It should be of a large enough diameter so  
that the loop
formed can easily fit over the hitch pin later. (I mostly use a cup  
hook screwed
into the end of a dowel. I attach this with a spring clamp to the  
edge of my cheap,
metal harpsichord tool/supply case, or to the front edge of the  
harpsichord - if the finish isn't too fancy).
2) Pull the wire around the dummy pin, so that it goes completely  
around and
crosses at a right angle. You need enough "waste length" to get a  
good grip. 6 to
10 inches should suffice. Hold the wire in that position with one  
hand - the hand
that you will use throughout to hold the speaking length. You will  
need to have
decided whether the waste length goes over or under based on the  
direction you want
to the coils to go (look at one of the loops you are matching).
3) Take the hand that is not holding the wire, and place it over or  
under the other
hand (depending whether the waste length is over or under the  
speaking length) and
grab the waste length. Holding the wire taut with both hands, and so  
that the
string forms a right angle where it meets, rotate both arms in a full  
circle around
one another (easier to show than describe this sort of thing),  
keeping the wire
taut and at right angle at all times, so that it actually makes clear  
and sharp
bends/coils around itself (each bends around the other). If you have  
been
successful, you should be able to let go with one hand, and the wire  
will pretty
much stay put.
4) Repeat the above as many times as needed to create the number of  
coils desired.
Steady, even movement, with wire held taut at all times, and  
maintaining the 90
degree angle between wire ends, will allow for even, neat appearance.
5) For the finish coil, hold the speaking length of the wire taut  
with one hand,
pulling straight toward yourself. With the other hand, pull the waste  
length of
wire neatly around the speaking length. It is essential that the wire  
be held taut
at all times, and a bit of finesse is needed to start the coil  
evenly. Again, the
waste length hand lets go, and is moved around the speaking length  
hand to grab the
waste length again. And you make as many tight, even coils as needed  
to match the
original.
6) Cut the wire, leaving a short segment (match originals), which  
will rest on the
hitch pin rail to help assure the coils don't unwind. It is necessary  
to plan so
that the final direction of that bit of waste length is under the  
speaking length.
     A caution - don't overdo tightness of coils. If they are too  
tight, you will
have tail breakage. But if they are not tight enough, they'll want to  
unwind. You
have to use good judgment here.



On Dec 13, 2005, at 8:03 AM, Christopher Purdy wrote:

> Has anyone been in contact with Willard Martin?  I have been trying  
> to get in touch with him for weeks.  Our two Martin harpsichords  
> need parts and my stock is getting thin.
>
> If not Willard, can anyone suggest another supplier for strings and  
> plectra?  I don't mind making my own string replacements but it  
> sure has been convenient to have them pre cut and the hitch pin  
> coil ready to go.  Who makes their own hitch pin coils?  Do you use  
> a piano string coil maker or something else?
>
> Also, while I'm on a roll, I'm thinking about restringing our  
> french double in the recital hall.  It has been very reliable for  
> the first fifteen years I have been here but this last couple of  
> years it seems to have gone into a slump.  I often get a broken  
> string during tuning now where before it was very rare.  I am also  
> wanting to replace all the pluckers.  I have a faculty member  
> practicing in here daily now and these dudes are breaking all over  
> the place.  At this rate, it will have all new plectra soon anyway...
>
> Thanks for your input,
> Chris
>
> Christopher D. Purdy R.P.T.
> School of Music, Ohio University
> Rm. 311, Robt. Glidden Hall
> Athens, OH  45701
> Office (740) 593-1656
> Cell    (740) 590-3842
> fax      (740) 593-1429
> http://www.ohiou.edu/music
>


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