[CAUT] vertical hammers

[Chris Solliday]

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At this point I don't think I can add much to the discussion. Ed, Stan, =
and Cy have hit the nail on the head, well at least glued the shank to =
the head. I will mention that a knurler and scoring the shank are two =
different things. Personally I knurl for size and glue adherence and I =
open a hole in the molding for pressure release and all the good stuff =
Ed Sutton and Cy so eruditely clarified. Then I glue with Tite Bond Wood =
Molding Glue and wipe the excess off the top of the molding with a damp =
rag. My boring is slightly loose to accomodate in-the-piano installation =
alignment. BTW don't forget stike point adjustment with the action =
bolts. I dry fit (use paper shims in the hole if necessary) the treble =
hammers and adjust first and then check after gluing. It's the big one. =
I doubt that there is perceptible tonal variation with the "score the =
shank method" or that the shank integrity is interrupted to any =
significant degree if the technique is consistent, however, I just don't =
like that way because usually my shanks are already in the butts screwed =
to the rail and the risk of damaging the action center seems too great =
to me, and besides the little hole in the top of the molding works so =
well. Just MHO. Chris Solliday
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Paul Chick (Earthlink)=20
  To: 'College and University Technicians'=20
  Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 12:15 PM
  Subject: RE: [CAUT] vertical hammers


  =20

  Subject: Re: [CAUT] vertical hammers

  =20

  In a message dated 7/16/2005 10:26:45 AM Central Standard Time, =
jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca writes:

    I have seen, at a convention class, or the list, or the Guild =
magazine, a=20
    gizmo for scoring the shank, to allow, trapped air to escape.
    I think it was a piece of wood, with a hole drilled in it, the size =
of the=20
    shank, then it had a screw in it, where the point was into the hole.
    You just inserted the shank, and it was scored to the depth the =
point was=20
    out.
    John M. Ross

  I inherited from my dad a shank knurler. It is a disk with groves in =
it, that is attached to a crank. It has a curved piece of metal parallel =
to the disk, that can be adjusted with a set screw, to allow the =
distance between the disk and the curved metal piece to vary. (for =
different shank sizes, or more or less knurling). You can attach it to a =
bench with screws, or a clamp. He probably got it when he worked for =
Stark.=20

  =20

  I use it when I replace a whole set of shanks. When I do just one, I =
use a pair of pliers, to gently knurl the shank.=20

  =20

  Wim=20

  =20

  I've been using a shank knurler from Schaaf for about 25 years.  I =
think it's still available.  It's adjusted to size the shanks to a =
uniform diameter as well as knurl the shank.  When glue is applied (any =
water based glue), the shanks swell back almost to their original =
diameter, making a very nice fit without excessive glue squeeze out.

  =20

  Paul C

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