---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Two things, There's a "new" brad-point out called "Vortex", and it's a doozy. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get uncommon sizes. Woodworker's Supply has 'em. The one's I've got cut beautifully and have a "deeper" center point. Also, Chris, I was wondering if you'd tell us what you do about rake when you find you want it different than the prior set? Thanks, Guy At 06:01 PM 7/16/2005 -0400, you wrote: >"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w = >"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word"> >At this point I don't think I can add much to the discussion. Ed, Stan, >and Cy have hit the nail on the head, well at least glued the shank to the >head. I will mention that a knurler and scoring the shank are two >different things. Personally I knurl for size and glue adherence and I >open a hole in the molding for pressure release and all the good stuff Ed >Sutton and Cy so eruditely clarified. Then I glue with Tite Bond Wood >Molding Glue and wipe the excess off the top of the molding with a damp >rag. My boring is slightly loose to accomodate in-the-piano installation >alignment. BTW don't forget stike point adjustment with the action bolts. >I dry fit (use paper shims in the hole if necessary) the treble hammers >and adjust first and then check after gluing. It's the big one. I doubt >that there is perceptible tonal variation with the "score the shank >method" or that the shank integrity is interrupted to any significant >degree if the technique is consistent, however, I just don't like that way >because usually my shanks are already in the butts screwed to the rail and >the risk of damaging the action center seems too great to me, and besides >the little hole in the top of the molding works so well. Just MHO. Chris >Solliday >----- Original Message ----- >From: <mailto:tune4@earthlink.net>Paul Chick (Earthlink) >To: <mailto:caut@ptg.org>'College and University Technicians' >Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 12:15 PM >Subject: RE: [CAUT] vertical hammers > > >Subject: Re: [CAUT] vertical hammers > >In a message dated 7/16/2005 10:26:45 AM Central Standard Time, ><mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca>jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca writes: >I have seen, at a convention class, or the list, or the Guild magazine, a >gizmo for scoring the shank, to allow, trapped air to escape. >I think it was a piece of wood, with a hole drilled in it, the size of the >shank, then it had a screw in it, where the point was into the hole. >You just inserted the shank, and it was scored to the depth the point was >out. >John M. Ross >I inherited from my dad a shank knurler. It is a disk with groves in it, >that is attached to a crank. It has a curved piece of metal parallel to >the disk, that can be adjusted with a set screw, to allow the distance >between the disk and the curved metal piece to vary. (for different shank >sizes, or more or less knurling). You can attach it to a bench with >screws, or a clamp. He probably got it when he worked for Stark. > > > >I use it when I replace a whole set of shanks. When I do just one, I use a >pair of pliers, to gently knurl the shank. > > > >Wim > > > >I've been using a shank knurler from Schaaf for about 25 years. I think >it's still available. It's adjusted to size the shanks to a uniform >diameter as well as knurl the shank. When glue is applied (any water >based glue), the shanks swell back almost to their original diameter, >making a very nice fit without excessive glue squeeze out. > > > >Paul C ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/2c/fc/29/eb/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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