[CAUT] vertical hammers and rake

[Nichols]

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Two things,
     There's a "new" brad-point out called "Vortex", and it's a doozy. 
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get uncommon sizes. Woodworker's 
Supply has 'em. The one's I've got cut beautifully and have a "deeper" 
center point.

         Also, Chris, I was wondering if you'd tell us what you do about 
rake when you find you want it different than the prior set?

Thanks,
Guy

At 06:01 PM 7/16/2005 -0400, you wrote:
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>"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word">
>At this point I don't think I can add much to the discussion. Ed, Stan, 
>and Cy have hit the nail on the head, well at least glued the shank to the 
>head. I will mention that a knurler and scoring the shank are two 
>different things. Personally I knurl for size and glue adherence and I 
>open a hole in the molding for pressure release and all the good stuff Ed 
>Sutton and Cy so eruditely clarified. Then I glue with Tite Bond Wood 
>Molding Glue and wipe the excess off the top of the molding with a damp 
>rag. My boring is slightly loose to accomodate in-the-piano installation 
>alignment. BTW don't forget stike point adjustment with the action bolts. 
>I dry fit (use paper shims in the hole if necessary) the treble hammers 
>and adjust first and then check after gluing. It's the big one. I doubt 
>that there is perceptible tonal variation with the "score the shank 
>method" or that the shank integrity is interrupted to any significant 
>degree if the technique is consistent, however, I just don't like that way 
>because usually my shanks are already in the butts screwed to the rail and 
>the risk of damaging the action center seems too great to me, and besides 
>the little hole in the top of the molding works so well. Just MHO. Chris 
>Solliday
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:tune4@earthlink.net>Paul Chick (Earthlink)
>To: <mailto:caut@ptg.org>'College and University Technicians'
>Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 12:15 PM
>Subject: RE: [CAUT] vertical hammers
>
>
>Subject: Re: [CAUT] vertical hammers
>
>In a message dated 7/16/2005 10:26:45 AM Central Standard Time, 
><mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca>jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca writes:
>I have seen, at a convention class, or the list, or the Guild magazine, a
>gizmo for scoring the shank, to allow, trapped air to escape.
>I think it was a piece of wood, with a hole drilled in it, the size of the
>shank, then it had a screw in it, where the point was into the hole.
>You just inserted the shank, and it was scored to the depth the point was
>out.
>John M. Ross
>I inherited from my dad a shank knurler. It is a disk with groves in it, 
>that is attached to a crank. It has a curved piece of metal parallel to 
>the disk, that can be adjusted with a set screw, to allow the distance 
>between the disk and the curved metal piece to vary. (for different shank 
>sizes, or more or less knurling). You can attach it to a bench with 
>screws, or a clamp. He probably got it when he worked for Stark.
>
>
>
>I use it when I replace a whole set of shanks. When I do just one, I use a 
>pair of pliers, to gently knurl the shank.
>
>
>
>Wim
>
>
>
>I've been using a shank knurler from Schaaf for about 25 years.  I think 
>it's still available.  It's adjusted to size the shanks to a uniform 
>diameter as well as knurl the shank.  When glue is applied (any water 
>based glue), the shanks swell back almost to their original diameter, 
>making a very nice fit without excessive glue squeeze out.
>
>
>
>Paul C

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