Actually the 2 subjects are closely related....For the Wurlitzer, with the addition of a long handle and an extra large weight on the impact hammer ( it would now resemble a sledge), extra force could be applied to the instrument in any way the tech deemed prudent to render the "pinblock" pliable & take care of the problem permanently. It will take some practice to get the feel of the impact hammer. Contrary to what one might think, excessively tight, jumpy pins are not good candidates for impact tuning -- at least to get a fine tuning. Those have a high break-away friction, & low sliding friction, & the impact hammer tends to exacerbate the problem by breaking the pin loose & causing the inertia of the weight to over-shoot. Use the impact for pitch-raises for awhile to get used to it. You'll get the feel for how hard to swing the hammer to achieve the result you desire. The adjustable weight hammer I helped Schaff develop is handy to learn with, since you don't have to control the swing so precisely, but can do so with the leverage/inertia of the weight position. After awhile the swing becomes second nature. Reyburn puts a rubber handle on his that makes it more comfortable to use. However, a grip can easily be put on any of the others, giving you a very functional tool for well under half the cost. I installed a golf club grip on mine -- on clearance @ Walmart -- cost less than a buck. I rest my little finger on the top of the tip. I found putting it between the fingers to be uncomfortable. Just place the hammer at/near the 12 o'clock position, swing, & let the weight do the work. If you're not keeping a relaxed grip, you are trying to do the work the hammer was designed to do. While I keep a relaxed grip, I'm in touch with what's happening to the pin in the block. I'm also aware of the pressure I put on the axis of the pin, easing it up slightly to take the string pressure off, allowing the pin to turn a bit easier, then I make sure I get the pin eased back down into its neutral position (both on the axis & in the torque) so it will stay where I put it. At this point it's intuitive for me, so I'm not sure I'm explaining it well. The feel of the block, rendering of the strings, etc., etc., all come into play, as they do with any hammer or technique. It just takes practice before it becomes second nature. Otto ----- Original Message ----- From: "Leslie Bartlett" <l-bartlett@sbcglobal.net> To: <caut@ptg.org> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 9:42 PM Subject: [CAUT] impact hammer, Wurlitzer piano > Two totally unrelated subjects...... > > Can someone with a good understanding of impact hammers and stability > explain to me how to "get stability" and "recognize it", using an impact > hammer? Please feel free to mail me off-list. It's a different animal than > a regular hammer, I know, but I can't quite figure how to figure it > out........ > > > I tuned the tightest "pin block" I have ever seen today. It was so bad that > when I finished my muscles were just beginning to cramp.... It was a 1930 > Wurlitzer baby grand, and when I put the hammer on the first pin I was > simply shocked. No Baldwin was ever this tight............ It was quite by > accident that I discovered there was no pinblock, but this was using the > plate as the block. The tuning pins were slotted from the bottom, each > having a wedge driven into the slot, much like a wedge is driven into the > handle of a "regular hammer" to hold the handle on by the outward pressure > caused by the wood. Does anyone on the list know the history of this > notion, how it started, why it ended. It was utterly fascinating to tune. > Couple loose pins, I simply tapped the wedge a bit tighter. There would be > no wearing out, though it was tough on the muscles......... > > thanks for any info. > les bartlett > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > _______________________________________________ > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >
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