Messagewhat a great idea. I never thought of a long fire lighter. I have just used the bic of equal and then cleaned it up if marked with some steel wool or sand paper. Thanks for the tip. Paul T. Williams RPT pno2nr at whidbey.com ----- Original Message ----- From: David Ilvedson To: caut at ptg.org Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 8:38 PM Subject: Re: [CAUT] hammer burning experiment That's what I use and how I use it...I have no problems with blacken shanks...it doesn't take much... David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, California ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Original message From: "Don Mannino" To: "College and University Technicians" Received: 3/31/2006 10:22:25 AM Subject: Re: [CAUT] hammer burning experiment Wim, I use one of those long barbeque lighters, and wave it back and forth the length of the shank. It spreads out the twisting action over a longer area. Don Mannino -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Wimblees at aol.com Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 8:11 AM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: [CAUT] hammer burning experiment Someone asked if I could do an experiment of my burning technique to see if the hammer was moving or the shank. I've got a box full of old Steinway S hammers glued to shanks, (They are not genuine Steinway parts), on which I did the experiment. I scribed a line across the shank and the hammer, and using my Weller heat gun, heated the hammer, and bent it off center, the way I normally burn a hammer. Guess what. The hammer did not move. The shank turned. So all this time I thought I was loosening the glue joint, when I was in fact, I bening the wood. As I said, I heat the shank at the hammer. The question I have is, where do you guys heat the shank? How far from the hammer? Wim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20060401/e3b0f52c/attachment.html
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