Hi Fred, I like to use Channel lock 7" Cutting Pliers http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=69645-922-357&lpage=none You bite into the pin enough to grip it and pull straight out along the hole line...or, get the pin moving in a circular motion, (aligned with hole) and ease it straight out exactly along the bridge pin hole line. The grip/bite and the circular motion helps you stay in line with the hole. Vise grips can do the same, but the on and off with the spring gets cumbersome ( to me ). You can also grab the pin with one side of the pliers, and put a scap piece of 1/4" thick material in the right spot to pivot the pin out a bit, also in line with the hole angles.....then reset your grip lower, and pivot again... this way you can get the stubbornest ones, and still maintain enough control to not damage the holes as you go. Are you planning to also epoxy coat holes, plane top surface, redag, redrill with one size lower and rechisel / dress up bridge notches? If all of the above, you can afford to be more aggressive in removing pins. I would hate to have to replace all those bridge pins, and NOT do the whole treatment, seems like you'd have to walk on eggshells hoping the holes, notches and top of the bridge all stayed pristine. Not saying its impossible to do, just difficult. On 12/13/06, Fred Sturm <fssturm at unm.edu> wrote: > > Hi all, > I wonder if anyone has some good advice for removing stubborn bridge > pins. Beyond grabbing them with vice grips, grunting and cursing <g>. I'm > thinking heat, but don't want to cause too much damage to the hole. Would > one heat with a soldering iron, say, 15 seconds (of course depending on > temperature of iron), then let the pin cool before pulling? That's what I > am > planning, but thought I'd see if anyone had a better plan. > BTW, my reason for removing solidly attached pins is to replace with > new, due to zinging sounds. I found one loose enough to pull, and it had > the > definite common wear profile, with a sharp feel to the finger. Meaning a > nice bit of metal shaving sitting there. I pulled a few unisons of > strings, > dressed the capo, and restrung, and the zings had reduced but not > disappeared. So I'm hoping bridge pins will be the magic cure. > Regards, > Fred Sturm > University of New Mexico > > > -- Best Regards, Brad Smith, RPT www.SmithPiano.com II III II III II III II III II III II III brad at smithpiano.com 603-494-4147 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20061213/65bf8202/attachment.html
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